The Queen of No-Frills Recipes Recommends Fabric Napkins and Better Than Bouillon

An interview with Julia Turshen, about how to be the hostest with the mostest, even with no time to prepare.

In her newest cookbook, What Goes With What, Julia Turshen helps home cooks simplify the daily conundrum of what to eat with 20 charts and 100 recipes, guiding us to our dinnertime happy place.

Just in time for the holidays, I caught up with the New York Times bestselling cookbook author to see how she applies her simple approach to cooking to the inevitable impromptu get-togethers. She rose to the task with suggestions for cozy, comforting dishes to feed a crowd and tips on being a laid-back host while making your guests feel special and cared for.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

What’s your secret to hosting impromptu get-togethers, especially when you don’t have time to prepare for them?
I approach it not all that differently from something that is more planned. It's about asking, ‘How do I make whoever we're having over feel super comfortable, and how do I make it as comfortable for myself as possible?’ Just keep things simple, with nothing complicated, with stuff that's easy to make and easy to eat, and let's hang out because that's the point.

Are there any quick and easy recipes you lean on for holiday hosting?
One is a recipe I call the Fastest Chicken Noodle Soup—it’s in What Goes With What. You cut up some chicken, sauté it with carrots, and then add water, Better Than Bouillon, which I swear by, and egg noodles. You get this delicious chicken noodle soup that tastes like it was cooked all day but took less than half an hour, and it's just so easy. If I go to someone's house and they give me a bowl of soup, I feel very cared for. I like to extend that feeling. The soup with some bread and maybe a salad and some ice cream is so easy and delicious. Kids love it; everyone loves it.

What ingredients do you always have stocked in the pantry that become handy when people come over?
We always have a variety of cheese and crackers because my spouse and I love a cheese and cracker snack. That's something I can put out while I figure out what to make.

I also have rice and canned beans, and between those two, plus whatever fresh or frozen vegetables I have, there's a meal there. The cookbook has one-pot rice dishes you can get done in less than half an hour. I make the Chickpeas and Spinach Rice frequently. It uses a can of chickpeas and frozen spinach, and it's so good and comforting. You can serve it as your meal, or you could serve it with vegetables, a salad, or with chicken. It’s affordable, nutritious, has no fancy ingredients, and is quick and easy.

How do you set the mood for a cozy, fun, laid-back get-together?
When you are relaxed—that's the most important thing, and it sets the tone. When you walk into someone's house, and they're relaxed, and there's a pot of soup on the stove that's already simmering, it makes a big difference in how your guest feels.

Are there any easy decor tips for making things feel special without being fussy?
Real fabric napkins make a huge difference. And whenever you can use lamps instead of overhead lighting, it makes things a little warmer, a little cozier.

What do you do if one of your guests can’t eat a specific ingredient and you find out at the table?
I always ask ahead for allergies or any food preferences I need to know. When that hasn’t happened, I keep things separate. Like the Chickpeas with Spinach Rice recipe, I say to sprinkle it with feta cheese before serving. If someone is coming over and you don’t know their restrictions or preferences, I’d leave the cheese on the side. Not combining everything makes it work.

What’s something you want guests to know before they come to your house?
For something super casual, I want help with cleaning rather than cooking. When I'm a guest, I ask if there’s anything I can do. If someone tells me no, just relax and stay out of the kitchen, I honor that and trust that my friend is telling me the truth. Afterward, I will insist on helping clean up. So, be polite and generous and offer help, but if someone tells you they've got it, trust them.

How do you let guests know the party’s over and it’s time for them to go home?
I get in this situation a lot, especially because my spouse and I go to bed early. I was just talking to my best friend, who has two little kids, about this. Kids' birthday parties have a beginning time and an ending time. As adults, we're allowed to do the same thing. I try to avoid guests staying too long by saying something like, ‘Come over for an early dinner,’ or ‘Come at five, and we'll eat early.’ It’s a nice way to handle it. You can be even more explicit by offering a start time and an end time. Say, ‘Come over from six to eight or six to nine.’ Set the end time a little earlier than you actually want. That way, if the conversation is great and goes a little later, you can be flexible about it.