The ELLE Guide To The Best Bob Shapes And Styles For Afro Hair
What do Solange, Tracee Ellis Ross and Yara Shahidi all have in common? Well, aside from their A-List style credentials, they’re all masters of experimenting with the versatility of Afro hair. From blown out disco locks to intricate braids, over the years, they’ve all provided ample inspiration for Black women with natural hair. The one look we’re coveting this autumn? The chic, sleek and surprisingly versatile Afro bob.
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The bob is a classic hairstyle, one that often brings to mind bone-straight cuts and wispy fringes. But Afro hair textures can get in on the action, too. When executed well, an Afro bob cut will enhance both your natural curls and your facial features, ramping up your style with volume and dimension.
How do you get it right? We consulted the experts to find out everything you need to know.
What is an Afro bob haircut?
In simple terms, a standard bob haircut is a short to medium-length style, usually landing somewhere in between your jawline and shoulders. The basics are no different for styling Afro hair, but there are a few important factors to consider.
'Afro bob hairstyles look fantastic and suit all face shapes, but you need to make sure to opt for the right length and finish,' says Charlotte Mensah, one of the UK’s top Afro hair stylists. This means you need to have a good understanding of your curl type and texture before heading to the salon, and make sure you work with an experienced hairdresser who will take that into consideration before going in with the scissors.
'Your curl type will depict how your hair will sit,' explains celeb stylist Solomon Paramour. Because as any natural hair girl will know, the difference between wet and dry hair can be significant, sometimes as much as halving the length of the final cut. As Paramour puts it: 'Be aware of potential shrinkage.'
Who should try an Afro bob haircut?
We’re not here to tell you what you can and can’t do, but there are some Afro textures that could particularly benefit from a bob cut. '[It’s a good style for] someone with thinner hair, as it can make the hair look fuller and hold better shape when cut blunt,' says Paramour.
Don’t be put off if your hair is on the thicker side, though. You can still pull off the style, as long as you’re strategic about the shape. '[The look] can also work for someone with higher density hair, but it is crucial the weight is balanced when it is being cut to reduce the risk of the hair becoming too heavy and blunt,' continues Paramour. 'This would make it more difficult to style.'
How to cut a bob with Afro hair
To avoid any errors when calculating your curl type’s shrinkage, we’d suggest leaving it to the pros. Do your research and make sure the hairdresser you’re visiting knows how to look after Afro hair – the last thing you want is to walk out with a bob that’s three inches shorter than you’d expected. (In London? Consult our guide to the best Afro hair salons here.)
It’s also helpful to arrive at your appointment with a clear idea of what you want. 'Cutting hair is a very visual experience,' says Mensah. 'I recommend bringing in some photos for inspiration and working alongside your stylist to help find the right shape length and style for your hair texture. Photos are the best references!'
And as Paramour notes, you should also communicate your expectations when it comes to at-home styling. 'Ask yourself: am I low or high maintenance? Am I willing to put the time into styling my hair?' he says. 'Cutting your hair shorter can mean you are unable to tie your hair up, resulting in the need for daily styling or refreshing. It’s not ideal for someone looking for a super low maintenance style. [You should] also let your stylist know if you’ve cut your hair short before and, if so, what did or didn’t work.'
How to maintain a bob with Afro hair
While you may not be able to tie your hair up with a short bob cut, that doesn’t mean it’s difficult to style at home. Both Mensah and Paramour explain that, as long as your cut has been personalised to your hair texture, it’s actually a pretty low-stress style to keep up with.
'This is a hairstyle that requires very little maintenance, so it’s one less thing to think about in the morning!' says Mensah. The main thing to stay on top of is your salon appointments. 'Get regular trims, even though [growth] is less obvious than with straight hair. Afro hair needs to be trimmed every six to eight weeks, as curly and Afro hair can form into knots and tangle up. This will make combing difficult and can lead to hair damage and breakage.'
Paramour agrees, while again underscoring the importance of understanding and embracing your hair texture. 'I always recommend my clients try to familiarise themselves with their hair texture when it is not heavily styled or manipulated with product,' he says. 'This allows more freedom in the way you wear your Afro bob and allows it to be more of a wash-and-go style.'
What are the different types of Afro bob hairstyles?
As with straight bob cuts, there are endless variations of this style, but 'short and medium-length bobs with full fringe are the most popular,' says Mensah.
Still, as Paramour points out, this is a style that can and should be personalised, making it unique to each individual. 'There is no “one glove fits all” with an Afro bob,' he says. 'It can be worn in many ways, but to reiterate, it is important to be aware of your curl type, texture and density, and how this will affect the end result. For example, if your hair is super coiled and kinky, when choosing a fringe style, be aware that these curl types will require more product and styling each day to achieve the desired outcome.'
Different ways to style an Afro bob hair cut
So, you’ve taken your inspo pics to the salon and have come home with the Afro bob cut of your dreams. How can you switch up your styling methods to ensure you don’t get bored of it?
'Play around!' says Paramour. 'It can be fun to wear your Afro bob more sleek and defined, using heavier products and applying them throughout the lengths and ends of the hair. I love to use a Tangle Teezer or a classic Denman brush to make sure I’m getting the product applied throughout the hair.'
And if you want something a bit more undone and laid back, play around with how much product you’re putting in and when. 'Afro bobs are also great when they have a more combed out texture,' says Paramour. 'I like to do this on day two or three [after wash day]. You can use a Tangle Teezer, paddle brush or Afro pick to separate, brush out and define curls, creating more volume in the style.'
But of course, don’t forget to cover the basics of Afro hair care while you’re experimenting. 'Most Afro hair soaks up moisture like a sponge so moisturise, moisturise, moisturise!' says Mensah. It’s important to establish a good bedtime hair care routine, using your favourite products to help lock in that moisture, before securing the ends and covering them with a silk scarf. 'The silky fabric will eliminate friction, tangling and breakage, protecting your curls at all times,' she says. 'Ensure that you have a good hairdryer, too – a tool that is kind to your hair is key. I like the Dyson hair dryer which features advanced ionic technology, and delivers fast drying and styling while also reducing frizz.'
How to choose products for your Afro bob haircut
As Paramour points out, the products you use on your hair will, again, largely depend on your hair texture. 'Some curl types and textures are better suited to water-based products opposed to oil, for example. Your hairstylist will be able to help you with this,' he says. 'Depending on the desired outcome, it’s great to have a daily leave-in cream and/or gel. This will help lock in moisture and definition. If your hair is colour treated or heat damaged, it can also be great to use a protein-based product to allow your curls to bounce and hold the style.'
Mensah recommends 'product cocktailing' to get the most out of your hair care regime, mixing two to three products together to maximise their success. 'My favourite cocktails are the Charlotte Mensah Manketti Oil Pomade, with a couple of drops of Charlotte Mensah Manketti Hair Oil, which allows for a supreme hold without leaving your hair dry and crunchy,' she says. 'Finish off with the Charlotte Mensah Manketti Oil Finishing Mist, which helps protect against environmental damage and daily wear and tear.'
The best Afro bob inspiration
The micro-fringe afro bob
The curled afro bob with full fringe
The chin-grazing afro bob
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