What is the ‘morning shed’ skincare routine and are there any benefits?
TikTok isn't short of skincare trends. Some good (Skin HIIT and face icing). Some not so good (Pore vacuuming). Now a dermatologist has weighed in on the latest viral fad promising to up your skin's A-game - the 'morning shed'.
Don’t worry, the trend doesn’t require any actual shedding or peeling of skin. Instead, the “morning shed” is when people use a load of skincare products and treatments before bed and then remove, or shed, it in the morning.
The practice already has over 30 million views on the video sharing platform and has seen a 36% increase in searches on Google in the last week alone, with advocates praising the regime for the glowy improvement it has made to their skin and hair.
While some fans of the #morningshed choose to keep it simple with a classic put on take-off routine which includes a lip or a face mask, others go for a maximalist approach heaping on the overnight cream, eye masks, mouth tape and jaw straps, which undoubtedly makes for an interesting pre-bed look.
Aesthetics aside, however, the regime has had some experts questioning the perceived benefits and risks, and whether it's actually safe to slap so much product and procedure on your skin?
What is the 'morning shed'?
Lesley Reynolds, skincare expert and co-founder of The Harley Street Skin Clinic, says the so-called morning shed highlights our fascination with beauty routines and self-care.
"The humorous notion that 'the uglier you go to bed, the prettier you wake up' has gained traction, emphasising the appeal of waking up with glowing skin and perfect hair. By layering on face masks, lip serums, heatless curls, mouth guards, and eye masks, this trend promises a refreshed morning look with minimal effort.
Reynolds says the trend underscores our ongoing search for effective beauty hacks and reflects current beauty innovation and self-care trends.
"However, while it offers a time-saving beauty solution, the extensive routine may be excessive and could potentially stress the skin and hair," she adds.
"And whether it will last remains to be seen."
Are there any beauty benefits of the 'morning shed'?
From an expert perspective, Reynolds says the 'morning shed' trend can provide some skin benefits, though effectiveness varies by product and skin type.
"During sleep, the skin undergoes natural repair, making it ideal for treatments," she explains. “However, the effectiveness of these routines depends on consistency and appropriate product selection. Overuse or incorrect combinations can cause irritation or sensitivity."
Reynolds says it is crucial to use non-comedogenic products suitable for overnight use to prevent clogged pores and breakouts.
“In short, the "morning shed" trend leverages natural repair processes during sleep to boost skin and hair health," she continues. "With carefully selected products and a balanced approach, it can offer substantial beauty benefits, but individuals should monitor their skin’s responses and adjust routines to avoid potential drawbacks.”
What are the risks of the trend?
Reynolds says using too many products at once can overwhelm the skin, leading to congestion and breakouts.
"The skin's barrier has limits and excess active ingredients can cause irritation or sensitivity, especially in sensitive skin," she explains. "Incompatible ingredients can reduce effectiveness or cause adverse reactions."
She cites the example of mixing retinol with strong acids, which might result in dryness and irritation.
"It’s important to understand ingredient interactions," she continues. "Overusing potent ingredients can compromise the skin's barrier, increasing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and making the skin more vulnerable to dryness, irritation, and infections."
If you throw mouth taping into your pre-bed beauty routine, that also comes with its own risks - including concerns over blocking your air flow, as well as potential irritation of the skin around the lips and pain when ripping it off, particularly for people with facial hair.
Medical professionals have warned that mouth taping is not suitable for everyone and you should seek advice from your GP before trying it.
How to try safely try the trend at home
Choose suitable products: “Opt for non-comedogenic, hypoallergenic formulas with hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides, and antioxidants,” Reynolds suggests.
Patch test new products: Reynolds recommends performing a patch test on a small area (eg behind the ear) before full use to check for adverse reactions.
Layer products properly: “Apply products from thinnest to thickest -cleanser, toner, serum, moisturiser, optional face oil, and overnight mask,” Reynolds advises.
Avoid overloading and ensure cleanliness: Reynolds recommends starting with a basic routine and gradually adding new products. "Keep your face and hands clean, and change pillowcases regularly to prevent bacteria buildup," she adds.
Focus on hydration and barrier repair: "Use overnight-specific products that promote hydration and barrier repair, such as those containing ceramides, glycerin, and squalane," Reynolds says. "Monitor your skin’s response and consult a dermatologist if needed.”
Steer clear of strong acids: Reynolds says Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), like glycolic and salicylic acids, can be too harsh for overnight use, causing irritation and sensitivity. "Retinoids should also be used cautiously, as they can lead to dryness and peeling," she adds.
Skip alcohol-based products: "Toners and astringents with alcohol can be excessively drying and irritating if left on overnight, stripping the skin of its natural oils," Reynolds warns.
Be cautious with fragrances and essential oils: Synthetic fragrances and essential oils can cause irritation and allergic reactions. "Avoid products with these for prolonged use," Reynolds adds.
Avoid clay masks and physical exfoliants overnight: Reynolds says clay masks can disrupt moisture balance and cause dryness, while physical exfoliants can lead to irritation and microtears if used too frequently.
Limit high concentrations of active ingredients: High levels of Vitamin C and chemical peels should be used as directed and not left on overnight to avoid irritation and damage. "Hydroquinone should be used short-term and under medical supervision," Reynolds adds.
Read more about skincare:
Doctor reveals the ‘5 K rule’ to follow for better skin and gut health (Yahoo Life UK, 3-min read)
Can sleeping on your back help prevent wrinkles? (Yahoo Life UK, 5-min read)
What is the face taping TikTok trend and can it really banish wrinkles? (Yahoo Life UK, 7-min read)