Julia Turshen’s Genius Charts Take the Anxiety Out of Cooking
Ditch the strict recipes and rules while keeping all of the flavor and community, says the bestselling cookbook author.
When bestselling author, food equity advocate, and podcast host Julia Turshen first shared a formula for a one-pot rice meal in her newsletter, she had no idea she was planting a seed that would blossom into her latest cookbook, the 100-recipe What Goes with What. In the book, Turshen’s signature, quick-to-read and easy-to-follow charts about soups, salads, breads, and beyond will delight her existing fans and earn her even more because they turn down the intimidation level of cooking. By showing that every recipe is simply a formula you can riff on, Turshen teaches readers that there’s really no “wrong” way to cook.
As What Goes with What, debuted last month, we sat down with Turshen to get the tea about the origin of the charts, her relationship to cooking and eating, and the ultimate (and easy) three-course meal for your next dinner party.
The layout of this book is so unique, with charts introducing each chapter like “Stuffed Vegetables” and “Braises”. When and how did you first dream up the chart concept?
I started making the charts in my newsletter. The first was for a one-pot rice meal that included some notes and ideas via chart form. I got such a positive response that I started sharing more charts. First up were two soup charts, followed by salad charts, a chart for salad dressings, one for cornbread, and so many more. When I look back on all of my old notes and journals (I hold onto these things!), I see that I've been making charts and lists for as long as I can remember. Getting to share them in my newsletter—and now in What Goes with What—allows me to show, rather than tell, how I think about food. The charts are a way for me to show how I wrap my head around things and hopefully make it easier for other people to do the same.
To someone who is unfamiliar with your “what goes with what” mindset, how would you explain the benefits of cooking this way compared to following traditional recipes to a T?
When you see that there's a formula within all recipes, cooking becomes less overwhelming. Identifying that infrastructure allows you to feel confident to substitute ingredients and use what you have, to riff and be creative. Cooking this way is more intuitive and less prescriptive, which allows you to be flexible and feel empowered and resourceful.
You’ve been open about your relationship to food, eating, and your body over the years, which has impacted so many others. Today, how would you describe your overall cooking philosophy and approach to food?
This means a lot to me to hear. I am engaging in a lifelong effort to feel the same things when I eat that I do when I cook: easygoing, happy, and calm. I'm nervous to say I'm there, but I think I'm closer than I've ever been. Overall I'd say my philosophy and approach are one and the same: Cooking doesn't have to be complicated to be good.
If you were going to suggest one chart from your new book that readers should start with, which would it be and why?
The salad dressings or the sandwiches. I think they both do a great job showing you how dishes have a formula and once you recognize it, the possibilities are virtually endless.
The menu section with recipes for different themes, like “Friends with Little Kids Are Coming Over” are so helpful! Which menu do you turn to most often, and why do you love it?
I love this section too! I'd say the three-course menu I turn to most often is the "Cozy Cold-Weather Dinner," which includes three of my favorite recipes from the book: Classic Caesar with Big Crunchy Croutons, Chicken Scarpariello, and Chocolate Espresso Wake-Up! Cake. I love this menu because I love Italian-American food, and the recipes are all really easy and crowd pleasing. Plus, everything can be made ahead, including the salad components, which I think is key for easy entertaining.
If you could share just one pro tip with home cooks about how to make meal prep—or mealtimes themselves—more enjoyable, what would you suggest?
Remember that not every meal you eat has to be the best meal you've ever had. Take it easy!
Is there anything else you’d like to share about this cookbook or your virtual cooking classes?
Everyone is welcome at my table.