25 Amazing Watches Collectors Rocked at ‘WatchTime New York’
There’s watch meetups every single day around the world, and then there’s WatchTime NY, the Manhattan event that attracts the high rollers of horology, from brands to dealers to collectors. We were there with our camera clicking, and what an amazing showing it was last weekend.
All year we’ve heard—and, indeed, said—quite a lot about the watch industry slowing down, about enthusiasm waning, and about pandemic collectors and crypto bros getting out of the horological game and causing the once-swollen watch scene to sag. But in Manhattan’s enormous Gotham Hall—our very own version of Rome’s Parthenon—there was nothing but watches and people who love them jammed together feeling the horological love. I walked away more enthused about watches, as did just about everyone I spoke with—which is really the point of the annual event.
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When I asked the event’s founder, Roger Ruegger, “How’s things?,” he waved at the architectural expanse, packed with watch enthusiasts, and then said in his Swiss accent, “I mean, look!” His pride was obvious, but I was also struck by how calm Roger seemed. The event was going off without a hitch.
I then turned my attention—and my trusty camera lens—on the dials and smiles of the people wandering the floor. It’s a journalist’s privilege to overtly scan for badass watches, and everyone I spoke with was happy to have their watch photographed; only a few folks chose not to have themselves photographed, however.
This year was a bumper crop, with watches from the big dogs like A. Lange & Sohne, Audemars Piguet, and, of course, Rolex on display—but very few Rollies, actually. I was struck by how many people were wearing totally insane watches from many of the brands that made our list of the 25 best independent watchmakers in the world. I saw De Bethune, Urwerk, MB&F, Akrivia, Armin Strom, Moritz Grossmann, Greubel Forsey, Grönefeld, Laurent Ferrier (which built Robb Report contributor Oren Hartov’s favorite watch of the 21st century), and so many more.
We also saw some very stylish folks rocking some small, hip vintage pieces from Baume & Mercier, Benrus, Breguet, and Rolex, bringing a dose of the small watch trend to the event.
In fact, there just wasn’t a way to eliminate any of the watches we spotted, as they were just too good. Below are the 25 most wonderful watches people wore to WatchTime NY this year. And, well, a few extras…because they’re just so tasty.
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Martin Frei — Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion
Cofounder and lead designer for Urwerk, Martin Frei, was wearing the Scorpion with notable pride and enthusiasm—the latter infectuous from the man—but he and I ended up speaking about his incredible ring, which is hand-engraved from stainless steel by a famous shotgun artisan. But it really is his incredible watch that we are to gawk at here, this star-wheel equipped Scorpion, soft in shape, stinging in innovation.
Stephanie Avril — Rolex Day-Date in Yellow Gold with Diamond Dial
Mad style, sick watch, camera-eating gaze—Stephanie brought the heat with her vintage Rolex Day-Date. Her watch sports a pie-pan dial, dating it to sometime before 1978-ish. Extra points here because the watch says Friday the 4th, but it was Saturday the 19th—and I’m pretty sure it wasn’t 6:16, either. That’s how you roll—Warhol-style—when your watch lacks a quick-set date complication (that came after 1978-ish). Stephanie is a buyer for Vintage Syndicate.
JDR — De Bethune BD28 Aiguille d’Or
It’s not very often that you see a De Bethune “out in the wild” (as the kids say). In fact, the last time I did was in Florence, Italy at a dinner with a man who owned his own race track for his collection of…well, I digress. JDR’s watch is just one of 50 produced, and features one of the coolest moon phase complications released in recent years. Hinged lugs provide the comfort of a shirt cuff. Also, the man has dope style with that deconstructed cardie with full lapes.
Valeria Bellot — Andersen Geneve Rising Sun
Valeria was as radiant as the dial of her Andersen Geneve Rising Sun, not a watch you’ll run across very often at all. Also a 50-piece limited edition (see above), and the dial is about as cool—well, warm—as any out there. Jumping hours, of course, and that sub-dial showing the minutes. Valeria actually had the time right on her watch…as one just must with a jumping hour.
Jason Sarkoyan — Urwerk EMC Time Hunter
You know you’re at a killer event when you see more Urwerk than you do Rolex. Jason rocked the Time Hunter, one of Urwek’s more “standard” watches—though that’s clearly an oxymoron. The point, however, is that this one doesn’t use the star-wheel complication to tell time, but instead good old hands around a straight-up dial. Nothing else about this watch is straight-up, however.
James Lamdin — Laurent Ferrier Galet Boréal
James Lamdin, founder and president of Analgo:Shift, could have worn one of hundreds, if not thousands, of watches at his disposal. He rocked the Laurnent Ferrier Galet Boréal, and looked fabulous doing so. A winning smile, as always, and nice shirt-jack, too, James.
Jeffery Greenblatt — A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Time Zone
This crazy good watch from Germany is turning 30 this month, and Jeffery brought a rare iteration: the Time Zone. The Lange 1 is the subject of a recent history we published, as well as our most recent edition of our Shopping Time column. When I asked Jeffery if he owned many Lange’s, he told me, “No, just this one. Why would I want another?” Point well taken. If there’s an “exit watch,” this could very well be it.
Mike Capps — F.P. Journe Chronometre Resonance Trois Parking Meter
That’s a mouthfull, but Mike’s watch is a rare bird indeed, one deserving of long, taxonomic descriptors. Typically the Resonance watches—which use twin escapements coupled by vibrations alone—use two identical dials side-by-side, but Mike’s uses a parking meter dial on the left side. BTW, Mike, you might need to wind your watch…the power reserve is almost tapped out.
F.P. Journe Automatique — Anonymous Owner
This person did not want their face in this story, but I refused to let them get away without a shot of their watch. The Automatique was originally a limited edition of 99, but Mr. Journe has since then quite famously stopped making LEs and even derided the practice. The watch achieves balance through extreme, but careful, asymmetry.
Atom Moore — Moritz Grossmann Atom Moore 37
Atom is one to swap watches during an event like WatchTime, but I caught him after a lunch of thin-crust pizza sporting none other than the MG he helped create. I will confess that shooting the watch of the world’s most famous watch photographer makes one a little shakey, but the man approved of my work—so all is well. The German brand makes some of the most classic watches of the 21st century, but this one takes a rather playful swing over to the eccentric realm of Moore-Land.
Alex Lin — Chronosuisse ReSec Helium Manufacture
To say that Chronosuisse has come a long way over the decades is an understatement. This watch is among the avant-garde, with an insane dial, and a retrograde seconds hand at the bottom. It is powered by the caliber C. 6005, made entirely in-house. Alex was very excited about the brand, and a visit to that booth confrmed his horological instincts.
Edouard Meylan — Moser x Massena LAB Endeavour Chronograph Compax
I’ve written at great lenth about this watch, so head over to my full report on the Moser x Massena LAB Endeavour Chronograph Compax to learn more. Edouard, notably, is the son of the man who ran Audemars Piguet back in the era of the Royal Oak’s first wave, and he is a whip-smart CEO who once made a watch case out of Swiss cheese. He also boldly removed “Swiss Made” from all Moser dials in order to let the watches speak for themselves.
Dave Roberts — Manufacture Royale 1770 Flying Tourbillon Designed by Eric Giroud
Eric Giroud has won so many watchmaking awards that it’s impossible to detail here. Suffice it to say, this watch is not something you’ll see every day, or every year for that matter. The flying tourbillon is mounted askance, while the 43 mm case with short lugs makes for a suprisingly wearable experience. This watch debuted in 2014.
Sameer Siddiqi — 2017 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Elephant”
Elephant? Because it’s huge and gray. Unabashed, just like Sameer himself, this watch perfectly matched his elephant-gray t-shirt.
Winston Chapman — 1957 Benrus St. Christopher
There’s large and in charge, and then there’s small and wicked. Omega’s version of this watch will set you back some serious bucks, but the Benrun version…well, it’s less, if not exactly inexpensive. Winston’s ‘stash and wire-rim glasses meet this watch with a wink and nod to the emerging trend toward smaller watches. Make them vintage, and it’s all the cooler. Well played, sir.
Jessica Gasser — Laurent Ferrier Classic
Jessica shows us how subtle is done. Laurent Ferrier’s Classic is a modern bit of horological perfection. This specific model may look utterly subdued—which is what we love the brand for,its command of quiet luxury—but a closer examination shows off the red and blue minute-track—so small, so understated, so perfect.
Victoria — Ulysse Nardin Diver 39
You read that right: It’s a dive watch. Diamonds make up the timing segments and the hour indicators for a bit of tasteful bling, which Victoria (who preferred not to give her last name) wore as naturally as a turtle wears its shell.
Xavier de Roquemaurel — Czapek Antartique Mount Erebus Deep Blue
Xavier is the CEO of Czapek, and he proudly wears the Antartique in solid yellow gold with a smile so contageous everyone just starts smiling and giggling along with the man. Few know that in the early 1800s, Antoni Patek and François Czapek were watchmaking partners. The modern brand is known for gorgeous, highly decorated movements (and we’ll post one below, just because).
Andrew Topazio — Habring Chronograph
Habring is one of those brands that people in the know love to let you know that they know….you know? It’s not secret, really, but the amount of watchmaking prowess per dollar makes for a special kind of sauce, to be sure. Note the placement of the pushers for this funky, off-beat chrono.
Breguet Classique — Unnamed Gentleman
This gentleman knows what’s up, which is neo-vintage sleepers. The Breguet Classique is every bit as charming now as it was back in the day, and for affordable luxury with values sure of shoot up over time, you really can’t go wrong with Breguet. As this man put it, “Older Breguet is the best kept secret out there.” Agree.
Kelsey Cerkleski — Baume & Mercier Vintage
Kelsey Cerkleski of Exquisite Timepieces of Naples Florida knows the drill for keeping it diploamtic when working for a mult-brand venture: go vintage. That’s exactly what I do when travelling with certain brands, as it kind of gets you off the hook. However, Kelsey is also rocking a Baume & Mercier, which we at Robb Report feel has some seriously amazing and undervalued vintage pieces lurking in the corners of the market. Smart move, Kelsey, and looks perfect on you with that Cartier bracelet, too.
NYC Watch Guy — Akrivia
Anonymous and badass, @NYCwatchguy’s collection is so crazy good we already did a big story on it this year. This watch is N. 23, because the man is insane for Michael Jordan. Rexhep Rexhepi, who made this watch, is now unobtainable, unless you’re way up there in the know.
NYC Watch Guy — Grönefeld Remontre
Grönefeld—also known as The Horological Brothers—is not taking orders, and there’s a reason they’re so busy. Just look at this watch to get a feel for it. Classic, but inside is one of the msot sophisticated movements going, a constant-force escapement that won the GPHG.
Armin Strom Orbit Pointer-Date — Anonymous Owner
Look at those bridges gleaming in the pin-spot lighting of Gotham Hall. Look at that huge red arrow for the pointer-date. Look at the craftsmanship. But here’s what makes this watch truly unique: The date function can be turned on and off, such that the red hand will jump to the date when activated, and then go ahead one day when it’s midnight. Turn it off, and it’s back to business as usual.
Bovet Récital Daylight Savings Time — Anonymous Owner
This watch won our Best of the Year award, so of course we need to include it. It’s so rare to see one in person, and this was the second we saw…the other down at the GPHG round up for this year’s nominees. Two in one weekend!
Czapek Caseback
Because, how beautiful is that? Promised we’d get one in here.
