The 1980s fashion ‘abominations’ you’ll be wearing again thanks to Rivals

If ever a decade benefitted from the rosy glow of hindsight, it’s the 1980s. Maligned at the time for “abominations” such as puffball skirts, shoulder pads, double denim and neon, some of its worst excesses have come to be regarded rather more fondly, given the stranglehold that greige-hued good taste has had on the catwalks in recent times.

While we’ve already had 80s period pieces in the form of One Day, Griselda and Joan, no TV show this year captures the decade’s exuberance more ebulliently than Rivals. Fans of Jilly Cooper’s 1988 bonkbuster will be braced for its surfeit of shagging – less so, for its orgy of fabulous looks.

“The 80s was a magnificent period of fashion innovation which started in nightclubs and extended to the high street,” says the show’s veteran costume designer, Ray Holman. “The young designers who influenced fashion were real trailblazers.”

Holman diligently recreated the period by sourcing from costume hire companies, vintage websites and specialist shops that still stocked 80s fabrics, with the wardrobe department making from scratch any looks they couldn’t source. “Every female character had something gorgeous made for them, while the male characters all had bespoke suits made in vintage fabrics.

Holman’s favourite look? “One of them is the Bugsy Malone gangster-style striped double-breasted suit worn by Lord Baddingham (David Tennant). We styled it with every accessory – braces, pinky ring, watch, tie pin and sleeve cuffs. Another is the emerald green strapless dress worn by Maud O’Hara (Victoria Smurfitt) when she arrives at her party on a camel. All of the actors embraced the period and style.”

As for what viewers should embrace, read on for suggestions of which 80s looks could have relevance in your wardrobe this season.

High waisted jeans

They may not be everyone’s favourite style, and whether they are or not will depend as much on your stomach shape as your tolerance of discomfort. Fans swear they act like a corset to give a flat, sleek silhouette, and whether you agree or not, the style isn’t going anywhere for autumn. For a simple way to wear them, make like Taggy (Bella Maclean) in a mid-wash pair of Wranglers teamed with a simple white tee.

Agolde High waist straight leg jeans, £310, Net-a-Porter 

Party dresses

Whatever your views on 80s fashion are, you can’t deny that the partywear was exceptional. Those looking for Christmas party inspiration need look no further than Rivals: it’s a riot of ra-ras, puffballs, bustiers, ruching, body stockings and bows, in sumptuous velvet, mesh, taffeta and shantung silk.

Satin dress, £175, Aligne 

Polka dots

Forget ditzy florals: the most predominant print of the eighties was the polk adot, as seen on everyone from Strawberry Switchblade (Google them, Gen Z) to Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman. Whether enlivening partywear or a pussybow blouse, polka dots were treated as a neutral, particularly in their most popular incarnation of black and white. Dolce & Gabbana, Yves Saint Laurent and Tove are backing black and white polka dots for autumn, making it an apposite time to dig out any you own.

Pussy bow blouse, £149, Holland Cooper 

Chain link belts

If you’re looking for an easy and inexpensive way to update your look, a chain link belt is a failsafe option. No matter that you haven’t worn one since 1988: whether cinching a sweater or enlivening a dress, it’s a simple style hack. If you’re not convinced by the ones in Rivals, look to Miu Miu’s spring 2025 show for further inspiration.

Belt, £180, Rixo 

Red stilettos

If you remember the book’s cover, you’ll know why the TV adaptation had to feature a pair of red shoes. This is likely why they’re a prominent feature in the very first scene – travelling, like their wearer, faster than the speed of sound. “It’s a great way to start and set the tone,” says Ray Holman. Their provenance? “I’d like to keep that between me and our ladies, but they [authentic 80s versions] are definitely getting harder to find. If we need more in the future - and fingers crossed that we do - they’ll need to be made to order.” Hints of a second season already? We can but hope.

Patent leather pumps, £750, Jimmy Choo 

Plaits

Those who lived through them will likely agree that if there’s one element of the 80s that should be forever consigned to fashion’s graveyard, it’s the hair. Bubble perms, backcombing, feathered fringes and bad bleach jobs were nobody’s friend, while the amount of Elnett used was certainly no friend of the ozone layer. But not every 80s hairstyle required volume. One of the chicest styles involved hair being slicked back into a single plait, as seen most memorably on Sade (and recreated in Rivals by Cameron Cook). The pared-back look is currently enjoying a revival and is ideal for showcasing this season’s statement earrings.

Gold plated earrings, £350, YSSO 

Waxed jackets

Rare is the character in Rivals who isn’t wedded to their waxed jacket, be it a pristine affair or a battered one chewed by generations of labradors. This is a drama set in the bucolic countryside of Rutshire: outerwear is its unofficial star. But you don’t need to live in the country to wear a waxed jacket this autumn: they’re this autumn’s go-to, for men and women alike.

Waxed jacket, £299, Barbour 

Leather blazers

What biker jackets are to the 2020s, leather blazers were to the 1980s. After being shown on the catwalk at Balmain and Versace, they’re also seeing a resurgence this autumn (see Whistles and Jigsaw for mid-priced versions). Those of us lamenting why we gave ours to Oxfam in the 90s (just me?) can only be mollified by the hope that their next owner saw them for the wardrobe classics that they indubitably are.

Leather blazer, £359, Whistles 

Bustiers

Worn most memorably by Madonna, it’s Cameron Cook (Nafessa Williams) who provides the most grown-up take in Rivals, making them work-appropriate by wearing a black bustier over a pristine white shirt. It’s a look that could have been taken straight from the autumn/winter 2024 catwalk and is one of many sharp office looks worn by one of the most stylish characters in the show.

Rosie Mesh and wired corset with detachable straps, £42, Marks & Spencer 

Denim shirts

Anyone who’s currently finding autumn’s menswear trends somewhat challenging may be heartened to know that amidst the sheer knits, camouflage trousers and “grandpa core” on the catwalk, there could also be found the occasional denim shirt. In Rivals, Declan O’Hara (Aidan Turner) presents a strong argument for the failsafe eighties staple. Bonus points if you own one by an authentic workwear brand such as Levi’s, Wrangler or Lee.

Denim shirt, £130, With Nothing Underneath 

Shiny lips

After seasons of matte lipstick dominating the trend cycle, the shine is back. Autumn is an ideal time to invest in a high-shine lipstick or gloss in a vibrant berry hue. Take your cue from popular 80s shades such as deep raspberry or muscadine, as worn by Sarah Stratton (Emily Atak) .

Clarins Comfort Lip Oil in Pitaya, £25, Sephora