Versatile, nutritious and inexpensive, lentils make a great pantry meal

Lentils are at the top of my list for when I want to cook from my pantry. These versatile little legumes (sometimes called pulses) are high in protein, inexpensive, shelf-stable and quick to cook.

Lentils form a nutritious base for soups and salads, and their flavors pair well with vegetables such as beets, carrots and cauliflower, and meats such as pork, sausages and chicken.

Cultivated in Central Asia since prehistoric times, lentils have always been a staple of Middle Eastern cuisine and European peasant fare.

In addition to their delicious earthy flavor, they are nourishing (high in fiber, protein, iron and magnesium).

Lentils are available in a stunning palette of colors--black, brown, green, yellow, and red, each with different textures. They fall into two categories: those that fall apart when cooked, and those that stay intact.

Green, brown, and black lentils, including Le Puy and Beluga varieties, come with their skin intact, which is ideal for salads and vegetable burgers. When cooked red and yellow split lentils (their skin is removed) turn into a puree, making them a perfect choice for soups, stews, and curries.

Lentils are readily available (try Indian specialty stores for more exotic varieties). Lentils are available both dry and canned. I prefer to cook them myself, but if you are in a hurry, canned and rinsed lentils will do the trick. One pound of dried lentils will increase to six cups after cooking.

Cooked lentils will keep in the refrigerator, tightly covered, for five days, or up to three months if frozen. Unlike dried beans, lentils do not need to be soaked overnight, and, because they cook in 10 to 30 minutes, they fit the bill for a quick and easy midweek meal either as a main dish, salad or appetizer.

Indian Lentil Coconut Stew/Soup

Adapted from Delicious Tonight by Nagi Maehashi, published by Countryman Press, an imprint of W. W. Norton & Co., Inc. ($35)

Stags’ Leap Winery’s 2023 Napa Valley Chardonnay ($35) offers the aromas of lemongrass, lychee, lime peel, coriander spice and mouthwatering richness, making it an excellent pairing for this recipe.

Maehashi suggests, “Yellow split lentils and split peas will also work here as a direct substitute, but the color of your dish will be different. Whole dried green or brown lentils are also great but will take 10–15 minutes longer — add extra water if it gets too thick. French green lentils don’t work as well here because they are firmer.”

14 oz can coconut milk (set aside 1/4 cup of the coconut milk for drizzling)

2 tbsp ghee, butter or coconut oil

3 garlic cloves, finely minced

1 yellow onion, finely chopped

15 oz canned crushed tomatoes

3 cups water

1 cup dried split red lentils

15 oz canned chickpeas, drained

1/2 tsp ground cayenne pepper or ground red chili

1/2 tsp ground ginger or 1-1/2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

1 tsp ground turmeric

1 tsp curry powder

1 tsp ground cumin

11/2 tsp kosher salt

2 tsp ground coriander

Pinch of red pepper flakes

Cilantro leaves

Cooked rice

Sauté aromatics — Melt the ghee in a large pot over medium–high heat. Add the garlic and onion and cook for 3 minutes until the onion is translucent. Add the spices and stir for 1 minute.

Simmer — Add the tomatoes, remaining coconut milk, water, lentils and chickpeas. Stir, then once it comes to a simmer, reduce the heat to medium–low/low. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, uncovered, stirring every now and then to ensure the bottom of the pan doesn’t burn, until the lentils are soft and creamy and mostly broken down.

Serve Ladle into bowls if you see this as a soup (pictured), or over rice if you consider it a stew. Either way, drizzle generously with the reserved coconut milk, a pinch of red pepper flakes, if you like (I do) and cilantro. Leftovers may be kept four days in the refrigerator, and in the freezer for 3 months.

Yield: Serves 4 as a soup, and 8 as a stew over rice.