Big Coat Season is here – these are the best picks for men
Can you feel it? The unmistakable nip of Big Coat Season is in the air and it’s time to think about your next investment piece. Because let’s be honest, a big coat is probably one of the most significant purchases you make all year, so it’s important to choose wisely.
Whether you opt for one of the new season’s best duffle coats or you prefer the clean-lined simplicity of a sleek wool trench, I’ve selected the best pieces from each category – in a broad range of price points – to help you pick the right style for you.
Duffle coats
With the release of Paddington in Peru just around the corner, it’s no surprise that classic duffle coats are making a comeback. This season, there are interpretations at Burberry in cashmere, Ralph Lauren in vibrant scarlet and black watch tartan, and Drake’s in sophisticated navy blue. The key to achieving a bookish, rather than childish, look with your duffle lies in the pieces you choose to pair it with.
A duffle worn with a suit, for instance, will make you look like an intern on his first day at the office, while a duffle teamed with a cosy Aran knit and a pair of unwashed denim jeans will look dashing and wintry. Don’t forget to pay attention to the quality of the fastenings on your duffle, as this detail has the potential to elevate your look from ordinary to, well, Paddington.
“One of the coats I’ll be wearing this winter is a duffle coat,” says Angelo Mitakos, the fashion editor of British GQ. “You really need to go for a classic British brand when wearing a duffle, and you dont get more British than Burberry. The iconic checked lining can be seen in the hood and adds a splash of colour which in the winter time can help lift your look.”
Spend
Wool cashmere duffle coat, £2,490, Burberry
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Wool twill toggle coat, £1,599, Polo Ralph Lauren
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Wool blend duffle coat, £485, Gloverall
Wool Trench Coats
A classic gabardine trench coat is one of the cornerstones of the so-called “new money style” trend that has gained traction over the past few seasons. Best worn oversized and paired with Waspy striped shirts and penny loafers, this look has been adapted for winter by a range of brands, showcasing smart wool and cashmere trench coats at the heart of their new collections. From Dunhill’s luxurious milk chocolate wool mohair twill trench, to more accessible options from minimalistic Swedish brands, there’s a style to suit every budget and preference.
“Wool trench coats are everywhere right now,” agrees Mitakos. “You can readily pick one up in a vintage shop, but if you are looking for something new, the Swedish brand Filippa K is a great go-to. A good price point, excellent quality and above all effortlessly stylish.” For Zak Maoui, the style director of Gentleman’s Journal, contemporary brands are leading the wool trench coat charge. “Hed Mayner went supersized with its camel trench coats, which bore wide lapels and neatly fastened waists, while JW Anderson’s came with tiny belts and were worn with nothing underneath,” he explains. “Saint Laurent’s trench coats were seemingly cut from wool and belted at the waist.”
Spend
Wool mohair twill double-breasted trench coat, £3,695, Dunhill
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Double-breasted wool trench coat, £785, Filippa K
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Technical wool blend trench coat, £229, Massimo Dutti
The Great Coat
Building on the oversized tailoring trend that has dominated the formal wear space of late, this season’s most seductive greatcoats feature extra-capacious proportions. Designed to be worn a size or two larger, with a drop on the shoulder and hems that skim the ankle, the styles evoke the kind of voluminous coats worn by officers in the First World War. Just team yours with inky tonal tailoring rather than army surplus gear to achieve a contemporary effect.
“At Lemaire, belted overcoats in brown were cut sharp and a little wartime in construction, and worn loosely over smart trousers and shirts,” says Maoui. “Prada’s were boxy and knee-skimming, classically fuss-free and worn over suits, while at Gucci, Sabato de Sarno’s sexed-up, minimalist vibe was defined by simple tanks over which sharp black overcoats were worn.”
Spend
Wool coat, £3,550, Gucci
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Soft wool alpaca, £1,595, Lemaire
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Wool blend melton coat, £279, Arket
Tailored coats
After a long hiatus, dressing up is finally back on the agenda. Where once we prioritised comfort over style, sartorial supremacy can now be achieved in the wearing of properly tailored suits, polished lace-up shoes and impeccably pressed shirts. Hurrah! The essential piece for achieving this refined winter aesthetic is a sharply cut coat that slims the silhouette and adds a touch of sleek elan to your look. “One trend we have been observing is that tailored coats and jackets are highly in demand,” notes Bosse Myhr, the buying director of Selfridges. “The brands to look out for include Loro Piana, Dunhill and Tom Ford.”
Spend
Single-breasted wool coat, £3,350, Prada
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Wool uniform coat, £820, Our Legacy
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Houndstooth boucle overcoat, £270, Cos
Padded Parkas
If you’re in the market for something a little more casual, yet no less insulating, you could pick one of the season’s simplest padded parkas. For the kind of thing Kendall Roy might have worn for a particularly chilly helicopter ride, choose a piece in a muted shade that effortlessly blends with the rest of your wardrobe. Prioritise a shell fabric that feels natural rather than synthetic, steering clear of any glossy, wet-look finishes. “Our best selling items are most likely this season going to come from Canada Goose” says Myhr. “The McMillan – a simple goose down parka – is a style that is highly in demand in all colours.”
Spend
Down padded parka, £1,075, Canada Goose
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Recycled polyester and re-used down puffer jacket, £465, Axel Arigato
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Seamless down parka, £129.90, Uniqlo
Peacoats
Last winter, I hardly took off my midnight blue cashmere peacoat from Brunello Cucinelli. The reason? I shared a photo of myself in it on Instagram and I’ve never received so many compliments on a coat before or since. Originally designed for Dutch sailors in the early 20th century, the original peacoat’s double-breasted construction and thick melton wool fabric excelled at keeping out harsh elements. Today, a good pea should embody both style and functionality, ensuring you look sharp while staying warm. When it comes to wearing your new peacoat, Maoui advises, “don’t think too much about it. Take a look at the coolest guys in modern history – Richard Gere, Al Pacino, Denzel Washington – and the way that they wore theirs – with an ‘IDGAF’ attitude.”
Spend
Wool double beaver cloth pea coat, £4,200, Brunello Cucinelli
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Wool double breasted peacoat, £995, Drake’s
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Wool peacoat, £379, Suitsupply
Winter Field Jackets
Perhaps it’s the influence of the Disney+ adaptation of Jilly Cooper’s Rivals or maybe Guy Ritchie’s The Gentlemen is to blame. Either way, countryside-inspired pieces are stomping into style for Autumn Winter ‘24. From chunky apron-toed shoes to the resurgence of jumbo cord, the standout item to incorporate into your wardrobe as temperatures drop is an extra-padded field jacket, as perfected by Prada. Channelling the elegance of the older royals, the new interpretations of these jackets should be worn oversized and with block colour separates to make a modern statement.
Spend
Wool blend jacket, £4,550, Prada
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Barbour Padded casual jacket, £249, End
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Patchwork jacket, £119, Zara
Read more of Teo van den Broeke’s writing at The Closet on Substack
