The secret to finding a trench coat which looks classically elegant but still modern

While the shops are full of cosy winter coats, the most appropriate outerwear right now seems to be a classic trench coat. Light enough to work during this mild autumn, many styles will see off showers in style, too. However, with a garment rooted in tradition, is it possible to mix in a modern twist, without losing the trench coat’s authenticity?

Today’s trench coats evolved from military greatcoats worn in the First World War – Charles Macintosh, Burberry and Aquascutum all lay claim to the coat’s invention and its water-proof properties. These heritage British brands (including Mackintosh) remain brilliant places to find a trench coat that will outlast trends and remain relevant for at least 10 years. Many of the details on trench coats were born out of necessity and although D-rings and epaulettes aren’t a requirement if you’re wearing your trench into town, rather than the actual trenches, they help to create the trench coat’s distinctive look.

Now you can find every iteration of trench coat, from silk evening styles to leather versions along with florals and metallics, but not deviating too far from the trench’s traditional palette of stone, beige or khaki remains a sensible choice if you’re making an investment. Antonia Johnstone is CEO and owner of pre-loved luxury store Sign of The Times and notes that, “neutral colours are the most sought-after. They go with everything and stand the test of time.”

Minimally-minded shoppers may wish to find a style that redacts the bells and whistles while feminine dressers may search for prettier details (like Karen Millen’s pleated skirt style). If you like a flash of dopamine with your classics, a colour-block style might suit your needs.

But there is a fine line to tread with such a heritage piece. An overly trendy trench will look dated next year while traditional styling may feel too staid. A clever way to balance this is by sourcing a classic colour but updating the silhouette. Lucy Kudhail is Buying Manager at Fenwick and advises that the way to go this autumn is to “invest in a classic belted trench, in stone, with a contemporary twist. Fenwick’s favourite picks this season are from Marant Etoile with its loose-fitting shape, sophisticated turn down collar and tapered cuffs and MM6 with its contemporary take on the classic trench through its oversized cape body.”

These slouchier shapes certainly feel more modern and allow the wearer to slip on a chunky jumper beneath, which extends trench coat season a little longer. Johnstone agrees that right now, bigger is better. “A trench coat is always a classic,” she says, “but to make it more contemporary and cool, look for oversized coats that go beyond the knee to mid calf.”

Pre-loved is an area when the trench coat shines as a smart purchase. Due to the technical elements, which ensure the garment is built to last, you can often find pre-worn versions in excellent condition. Johnstone notes that, “Burberry trenches, in particular, always fly off the rails. We find shoppers ask for them year after year and Max Mara also sells consistently well – their coats are amazing quality.”

But how best to find a vintage style that suits? Johnstone’s checklist for shopping for a pre-loved trench coat is to “make sure it fits well and avoid those that are too small, as this can look unflattering. Do go up a few sizes for that modern yet luxe feel. Don’t be afraid to take the trench in for alterations if it has potential but doesn’t fit.”

It also pays to shop around. “Pre-owned prices vary hugely and they are not always reflective of quality,” warns Johnstone. “As a general rule for pre-loved pieces, make sure you can see it in store or that you can return it if you buy online.” Shopping at a reputable store, where designer items are authenticated, will ensure you get what you paid for.

Whether you’re channelling Katherine Hepburn or the Princess of Wales – two women who have styled the trench in their own ways – trench coats transcend trends yet are incredibly useful wardrobe icons. Kudhai summarises their deserved place in our wardrobes: “You’ll always come back to a trench coat when the weather can’t make its mind up.”