The historic Welsh walk with views, castles and cosy pubs

Tucked away in the heart of Monmouthshire, far from the bustle of modern life, lies one of South Wales’s best-kept secrets: the Three Castles Walk. This tranquil two-day, 19-mile circular trail winds through idyllic, unspoiled countryside, linking three Norman castles: White Castle, Skenfrith, and Grosmont. Yet despite its scenic beauty and historical significance, the walk remains relatively unknown, perhaps overshadowed by more famous routes like the Brecon Beacons and Offa’s Dyke Path. This, however, is precisely what makes it so special.

I was fortunate enough to come across it only by chance, some weeks ago, while in Abergavenny. Eager to reconnect with my Welsh heritage – and the land of my late grandmother Esme, who left Wales for England at the age of 16 – I had made my way to the market town, with its Black Mountains backdrop, and reasoned that strolling its rural byways was a suitably poignant way to find the connection I was after.

I arrived late one evening, spending the night at The Angel Hotel, an elegant establishment dating back to 1829, then the following morning – after a hearty breakfast and a quick pit stop at The Angel Bakery across the road – off I went.

The route can be joined at any of the three castles, but I opted to begin at White Castle, the best-preserved of the trio, only a short drive from Abergavenny. The 19-mile trail is well-marked, with only a couple of significant inclines, perfectly manageable for any walker of moderate fitness. You could, of course, complete all 19 miles in a single day, but it is far more pleasant to, as I did, spread the walk over two (or even three) days to fully savour the experience and explore the castles at your leisure. The landscape along the Three Castles Walk is breathtaking, and while you will encounter others along the route, you will often find yourself blissfully alone, accompanied only by the sounds of nature and the rhythm of your footsteps.

The castles were originally built to defend the Welsh borders, each standing proudly among the rolling hills. Now in ruins, they offer a fascinating glimpse into the past. White Castle is the most imposing, with its towering curtain walls and a deep moat, once essential for defence. From the grounds, there are stunning views over the Monnow Valley, a reminder of the strategic significance these strongholds once held.

I crossed the castle’s bridge, then settled at a picnic bench with a cinnamon swirl from The Angel Bakery, taking in the quiet beauty of my surroundings.

Once fuelled, I continued along the route. From White Castle, the path meanders through peaceful lanes and across farmland, where sheep graze contentedly, watching curiously as walkers pass by. It’s this sense of tranquillity that makes the walk so special – aside from the castles, the landscape feels as if it hasn’t changed for centuries. I discovered a memorial bench along the way that’s well worth stopping at to take in the view.

A few miles further along, I reached Skenfrith Castle, smaller than White Castle but equally charming, with its circular keep set by the banks of the River Monnow. It’s more intimate too, somehow, set beside a river and close to a small village. Next to the castle is St Bridget’s Church, consecrated in 1207. Inside, I admired the beautifully embroidered Skenfrith Cope, a detailed piece displayed proudly behind protective glass.

After exploring the grounds, I headed to The Bell at Skenfrith for the night, a former 17th-century coaching inn where my room offered a lovely view over the bridge and up to the castle. Having worked up rather an appetite, I indulged in a warming, seasonal feast, gratefully devouring pumpkin soup and mushroom gnocchi, then turned in for the night.

The next morning was cool and crisp. I sat down to another hearty breakfast, then set off on the next leg of the walk.

From Skenfrith, the trail leads through more magnificent countryside to Grosmont, where the last of the three castles stands. Though in ruins, Grosmont Castle’s octagonal chimney gives it a romantic, almost fairy-tale quality, and views from the battlements across to St Nicholas Church are well worth the climb up its narrow stone steps.

From here, it’s another three hours or thereabouts over undulating farmland criss-crossed with babbling brooks, until you find yourself back at White Castle. How peaceful the past two days had been, I mused, and how wonderful to have found such peace and beauty in the woodland trails and open fields of my grandmother’s homeland. The Three Castles Walk may not be the region’s most well-known or talked-about trail, but if you’re seeking tranquillity off the beaten track, I can think of no finer way to find it.

Essentials

Louise Ottewell was a guest of The Angel Hotel, Abergavenny (rooms from £185 B&B; angelabergavenny.com) and The Bell at Skenfrith (rooms from £185 B&B; bellatskenfrith.co.uk).

Paths along the Three Castles Walk are well signposted, but it’s worth downloading a guide from the Visit Monmouthshire website (visitmonmouthshire.com) and also carrying a map, as mobile signal can be patchy in remote areas.

The castles are open from 10am to 4pm daily and are free to enter. White Castle has a donation box with a suggested amount of £3.