The fashion mistakes every middle-aged man needs to stop making

If our twenties are for sartorial experimentation and our thirties are about establishing a personal style, then our forties, fifties and beyond should be focused on consistency. Because nothing shouts “midlife crisis” like a middle-aged man bouncing between trends while wearing skin-tight trousers and overly stiff leather jackets.

But that doesn’t mean that dressing for middle age needs to be boring. In fact, it’s entirely possible to look stylish and unexpected – see Ryan Reynolds in his Brunello Cucinelli ensembles, David Beckham sporting Loro Piana, or Jude Law in his tailored Brioni pieces, for proof. The key is to follow a few basic ground rules.

Don’t fall into the blazer and white shirt trap

As you navigate middle age, finding a go-to style can be useful – but be careful not to settle for the same look as every other man. The most common offender? The blue blazer and white shirt combo. “I once went to Annabel’s and was the ONLY man not wearing a blue blazer and a white shirt,” says menswear expert and star of the The Great British Sewing Bee, Patrick Grant. “It’s dull, lads. If you want to wear a formal shirt try tan or brown, or a lightweight denim. Alternatively, go for a polo shirt, preferably one cut from fine gauge merino from John Smedley in a darker colour.”

Extra fine merino wool polo, £240, John Smedley

Focus on fit to avoid looking like a flop

Take everything you buy to a tailor – even your jeans. This rule applies to all ages, but once you hit middle age, it’s non-negotiable. “Everything looks better if it fits properly,” says stylist Catherine Hayward. “It might seem obvious, but ill-fitting trousers, dragging hems, jackets too long in the sleeve or a size too big will look considerably better (and more age appropriate) if you take them to a tailor for a tweak.”

Regular fit jeans, £165, Nudie Jeans

Start making some effort

It’s often said that one of the biggest style mistakes middle-aged men make is trying too hard to look young and trendy. But according to menswear designer Oliver Spencer, the greater misstep is making no effort at all. “Looking good in your 40s needn’t take up too much mental bandwidth if you ensure that your wardrobe is made up of classic menswear silhouettes in good quality fabrics,” he says. “A beautiful wool overcoat, organic cotton shirts, unstructured tailoring, extra fine knitwear, premium white tees.”

Herringbone cotton wool blend jacket, £449, Oliver Spencer

Don’t try to dress younger than you are

That said, dressing appropriately for your age is key. Opt for timeless over trendy – skip the logos, steer clear of synthetic fabrics and deploy colour with care. “Stick to a neutral colour palette with the odd brighter accent to make it easy for yourself,” says Spencer. “This will help to avoid making the mistake of trying to dress too young for your age.”

Fine cord shirt, £185, Sunspel

Do avoid tight chinos

As we age, our bodies change – and so should our wardrobes. Embrace this reality by giving ultra-tight clothing a wide berth. Skinny jeans and skin-tight chinos? Leave those to the teens. “The tight low rise thing is over and it has been for a while now,” agrees Grant. “Get a pair of well cut, relaxed fit or pleated chinos, with a higher rise, and belt them or wear braces to keep them high. And definitely no stretch, not only does it look bad, elastane is terrible for the planet.”

Heavyweight relaxed chinos, £94.50, Community Clothing 

Ditch ill-considered accessories

Sure, that backpack was a gift from David Lloyd, and yes, that canvas tote came free with your copy of BoJo’s Unleashed. But that doesn’t mean you should carry either around in everyday life – unless, of course, you’re aiming to look like, well, BoJo. “Cheap nylon backpacks from the gym deployed as a work accessory will look slovenly and slapdash,” says Hayward. “Instead, buy a decent leather bag – tote, briefcase or backpack – will age well and lend you some gravitas in meetings.”

Leather roll top backpack, £310, Sandqvist 

Keep your shirt nicely tucked in

Nothing makes a middle-aged frame look more unkempt than a crumpled, untucked work shirt. While leaving your shirt out might work if it’s a breezy silk number and you’re relaxing on a tropical holiday, in everyday life, it’s best to keep it neatly tucked into your waistband. “It’s not the 90s” says Grant. “Unless you’re on a beach, get your shirts tucked in. I understand, of course, that some of us are trying to hide a belly, but simply untucking the shirt doesn’t hide anything, you just look portly and scruffy instead of just portly.

Reversible leather belt, £68, Reiss 

Don’t forgo haircuts (or ear trims)

Few things add years to a middle-aged appearance faster than stray, unruly hairs sprouting from unexpected places – especially when said hairs are starting to turn grey. Keeping things neatly kempt can make a world of difference. “A flattering haircut, trimmed facial hair and moisturised skin and lips become increasingly important as men age,” agrees Hayward. “Find a barber who will sort all three.”

The Grey Stimulating shampoo, £59, The Grooming Clinic 

Find a personal aesthetic

While it’s tempting to experiment with trends and try new styles, too much sartorial pinballing can make you look much older than you are. “Many middle-aged men struggle to find their personal aesthetic,” says Spencer. “Their wardrobe is an accumulation of two decades worth of clothing with no common denominator – gifts from their partners, jumpers from their mums, etc. Really stylish middle-aged guys tend to keep within a certain genre of menswear, be it preppy or minimalist or sartorial. It becomes their signature and it looks refined and considered.”

Eschew weekend anoraks with suits

That slick plastic puffer you’ve owned since 1999 might be great for a Sunday dog walk, but for the city? Not so much. “Unless you’re investing in a piece of fashion forward statement rainwear from the likes of Burberry or Prada, opt for a proper coat,” says Hayward. “A sleek tailored woollen number in a monochrome shade always elevates the working wardrobe.”

Double breasted wool coat, £470, A Day’s March 

Don’t wear bad shoes

The old adage says you can tell a lot about a man by his shoes, and it’s a truism which becomes even truer as we age. Cheap, ugly, or “fun” footwear should be reserved for the twenty-somethings. For a middle-aged man, the focus must be on quality and elegance. “Maybe it’s because the feet are far away from the brain, but for some reason middle-aged men have forgotten that a good outfit can be utterly undermined by bad shoes,” says Spencer. “Sneakers are a common culprit. They’re a lazy choice worn with a pair of chinos, for example, when a pair of beautiful brogues could be a much more refined and, in some cases, edgy alternative.”

Loafers, on sale: £264 (originally: £440), Grenson 

Read more of Teo van den Broeke’s writing at The Closet