Dsquared2, Staff International: The Legal Dispute Continues

MILAN — The plot thickens.

On Thursday, Dsquared2 issued a statement further explaining its move to terminate the license with Staff International ahead of its expiration date in 2027.

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“This carefully considered decision, taken with support from Legance law firm, follows several serious contractual breaches by the licensee, and reflects the brand’s commitment to protecting its values, heritage and the excellence that has always defined it,” Dsquared2 stated.

Legance is an independent Italian law firm with offices in Milan, Rome and London.

Staff International responded with a statement saying it “denies the existence of any breaches of the license agreement in place with Grascoe Holdings Ltd., Dsquared2 Trademarks Ltd. and designers Dean and Dan Caten.”

Confirming what it said over the weekend, Staff International “reiterates that it has already brought an action before the Court of Milan seeking a declaration that the license agreement is still in force and that it is Grascoe Holdings Ltd. and the designers Dean and Dan Caten who have failed to fulfill their contractual obligations.”

On Thursday, Dsquared2 said that with the termination of the license with Staff International and “billionaire Renzo Rosso,” the founder of Staff International parent OTB, the brand “leverages its roots to shape the future ahead and enters a new phase of turnaround marked by strategic, creative and operational independence.”

For its part, Staff International “noted that the involvement of Renzo Rosso in the statement issued by Dsquared2 to the press is completely inappropriate, as Renzo Rosso is not a party to the license agreement, which was signed exclusively by Staff International.”

MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: Renzo Rosso (C), Dean and Dan Caten are seen backstage at the Dsquared2 S/S 2023 fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 on September 22, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for Dsquared2)
Renzo Rosso (center) with Dean and Dan Caten backstage at the Dsquared2 spring 2023 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for Dsquared2)

“Bringing production and distribution in-house is a move, caused by the reiterated contractual breaches, that has been turned into a framework of a new strategy, nurturing an evolution of the values that have guided Dsquared2 from the very beginning,” continued Dsquared2. “In an industry often driven by impersonal dynamics, the brand prepares to reclaim its voice and reassert a fashion philosophy that speaks in first person.”

The statement, with a Dublin dateline, said the decision “also enhances the founders’ desire to honor and hone the values of autonomy and authenticity at the heart of Dsquared2 February’s 30th anniversary celebration.”

The Catens revealed last Saturday that they are taking complete control of the Dsquared2 fashion brand they founded in 1995, effective immediately and starting with the pre-spring 2026 sales campaign.

“We are not just protecting our business, we are safeguarding our legacy and our dream, which is something deeply personal,” the founders said jointly in a statement.

Shortly after that first statement, Staff International said “it has filed a lawsuit on 27th March in the Court of Milan against Grascoe Holdings Ltd., Dsquared2 Trademarks Ltd. and the designers Dean and Dan Caten, in order to assert its right to the full performance of the current license agreement, with all consequent measures.”

Staff International is the manufacturing arm of OTB, which comprises the DieselJil Sander, Maison Margiela, Marni and Viktor & Rolf brands, as well as the Brave Kid childrenswear producer. OTB also has a stake in Amiri.

The first agreement with Dsquared2 for the production and distribution of the brand’s ready-to-wear was inked in 2000.

Staff International and Dsquared2 renewed their 10-year-old licensing agreement in 2010 through to 2027.

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