Chic Critique: What are scarf coats and why are they autumn’s most divisive trend?
Scarf coats are one of fashion’s greatest anomalies. Marrying functionality with flair, the outerwear hero seems like the perfect investment for autumn.
Coveted by cool-girls across London, the two-in-one pieces have survived yet another year of the trend cycle, appearing on AW24 runways à la Murral, Rohk and of course, Toteme, the brand which is credited with thrusting the wool-blend wrap onto the European fashion imagination.
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We saw whispers of the scarf coat revival on the SS25 runways across both womenswear and menswear collections. Primarily spotted in the form of snood, iterations of the trend-led layering device were championed by Hermès and Carven. Previously, AW24 saw Louis Vuitton send male models down the catwalk in jacquard knitwear coats with combined scarves, while Rick Owens sheathed his models in XL, befurred options that quickly went viral online.
Typically oversized in silhouette with white contrast stitch detailing and a built-in scarf, the jackets are a yummy mummy staple. Which is why, as someone who lives in Notting Hill, an area dominated by the polished tribe, the design doesn’t quite sit right with me.
Granted, I am an ex-CSM student who is hard pressed to find something not of the Nineties or Noughties persuasion in their wardrobe. Chai latte-chic with a side of £300 blonde highlights doesn't quite fit the bill.
I completely understand the allure. Composed and the epitome of quiet luxury, the coats are an easy choice for the cooler climate. Throw it on over any outfit, be it jeans or even tracksuit bottoms, and you’ve immediately boosted your sartorial status.
However, I think it’s a shame to shelve the solo scarves. I love a great scarf. My personal favourite, a skinny, striped Acne Studios number, brings me so much joy when it’s gloomy outside. The same goes for my baby pink cashmere piece, enormous printed Nicola Farhi gem and butterfly-printed silk Zadig and Voltaire offering. Simply too good to keep on reserve.
Opting for a scarf coat, as trendy and functional as they may be, isn’t the most fun option. Which is fine for some who crave an easywear coat for winter. Personally, I can’t resist the pull of a flirty skinny scarf.
Many brands feel the same. Acne continues to stock streamlined renditions (very tempting), Rixo purposely layers its leopard print pieces with bold florals and golden jewels to create an art deco appeal, and Gucci is never short of a floral-print silk wonder.
Don’t get me wrong, this is by no means a slandering of Toteme, whose patent-leather knee boots in chocolate I’ve been eying up for quite some time now. Personally, I’d rather opt for the brand’s ‘Signature Monogram Silk Scarf,’ teamed with a cute bomber and jeans, adding a pinch of pizzazz to a versatile look. Call me sentimental, but I’m not ready to bid farewell to scarves just yet.
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Whether you’re a fully-fledged scarf coat lover or a sceptic, there’s no denying that the silhouette is very much back on the cards for winter 2024 and the dawn of 2025.
So, while not totally devoid of fun (Cos have released a rather fetching pinstripe option, Mango a tasselled one and Joseph and fringed alternative) I’ll be sticking to my trusty scarf archive to top off my winter looks this season. But do let me know if they ever release a skinny scarf option.
How to wear scarf coats:
How I would style a scarf coat:
COAT: Toteme Embroidered Wool-Blend Scarf Jacket, £810, MYTHERESA
SKIRT: Ulla Johnson Estelle Denim Midi Skirt, £455, MYTHERESA
BAG: Rectangular Bag, £345, BA&SH
BOOTS: Lavan Boots, £200, STEVE MADDEN
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