Chef Monica Galetti's guide to Samoa: beach huts, poke and the perfect swimming spot

Where is your favourite destination and why?

It’s Samoa — but I don’t get there enough for obvious reasons. It’s where I was born. There’s something emotional that happens as soon as I touch down there. It takes my breath away, because of the memories. Where you come from, that’s something special. I grew up in New Zealand and I have now officially lived in London for longer but that’s where I will always belong and where I call home. It’s such an underrated place, and it’s changing a lot.

When was the last time you were there, and who were you with?

I am supposed to go this year, hopefully in December. I was meant to be there for the Commonwealth Tour this week but things with family have meant that I cannot go. It’s been 10 years since I was last home but I still have a lot of family there, and my dad retired there four years ago to a house he had built. So we now have a family home there which I haven’t even seen. The last time I was there, my mum was getting her Samoan title, she was becoming head of our family. It’s a very big thing, so it was a special trip. In every family there is a chief, who acts as representative of the family. There are certain levels of chiefdom within a family — the biggest chiefs, who are orators and only they can speak publicly, then the smaller ones. Imagine you have a village and five households. There would be a main chief, and the heads of those five households would answer to, and speak to them. My dad’s village is called Malie, my mother’s is called Fatoia. I’ll be going to both when I go back.

Where do you like to stay there?

I normally stay with family but there’s an amazing hotel called Le Lagoto. On the Upolu island, there’s a place where the King will be staying, called Sinalei Reef Resort.

What has been your favourite meal there?

Eating out, I would always order poke, ideally from Amanaki restaurant. But this is not poke how we know it here. It’s not piled up with salad or rice, it’s so pure and with the freshest tuna and a mix of soy, chilli, a bit of garlic and ginger, then served with a massive bunch of sea grapes. They look like a tiny vine, from the ocean, and they pop with this salty pepperiness. It’s so beautiful. And I’d get a fresh coconut on the side. I’m disappointed to say that McDonalds and KFC have recently arrived in Samoa and there were huge queues.

What are your top restaurants?

My family rave about two restaurants called Nourish Cafe and Paddles Restaurant.

What would you do if you only had 24 hours there?

I would go to swim in a cavern called Piula. It’s like a cenote in Mexico, it’s so beautiful — you jump into it, a pool inside a cavern, very cold water, but so so clear.

And I’d have poke. I would want to go to Sapapalii which is where my mum is from, and that’s where my family originated, and where Christianity landed, so it has the most beautiful church. I’d also want to go to the Teuila (the teuila is our national flower) festival which is normally in September.

It’s a celebration of independence and there are all these Samoan performances — one I wouldn’t miss is the fafafinas show which is almost like a drag queen show, it’s a huge part of our culture. Samoa has such a big party atmosphere, and the Teuila goes on for about a week, loads of performances, everyone dressed so colourfully and in national dress.

What is the one unmissable thing you recommend doing?

Going to the blowholes on the coast. It’s where the ocean hits the coast so hard that it blows out of these holes in the rocks, like sea geysers. It’s volcanic and rocky and the water just blows through when the tide comes in.

Is there a hidden gem you are willing to share?

Luxury is something that people chase but if you could just really enjoy the simplicity of island life, then try a beach fale stay. It’s literally a hut on the beach. There might be a shared shower, but they are gorgeous little huts that you rent, normally direct from smaller families. In fact all the big hotels in Samoa are owned by families; even Aggie Grey’s in Apia harbour was started by a family. Beach fales are for everyone, you can book them online and they’re everywhere. It’s how locals spend the weekend, going down to a fale. These huts have thatched roofs and are open air with curtains that roll down at night.

Where do you like to let your hair loose?

I’d go to a fiafia night, which are celebration nights held in certain hotels and restaurants. They get a group of traditional performers and everyone just gets up dancing. Dance and music is so much a part of our culture. It is tradition that at certain points everyone gets up to join in — the dance is called the siva samoa, and everyone knows how to do it. As soon as you hear a certain song, everyone gets up straight away. With the twang of a guitar the men start throwing themselves on the ground while the women dance and it’s tradition for the women to step gently over the men. It’s quite beautiful.

Who do you call to have a good time there?

My Auntie Emi who is my mum’s younger sister, she has just moved back there from New Zealand.

Favourite shops?

Mena in Apia, and the marketplace, right in the middle of Malie.

The one thing you would bring home as a souvenir?

Coconut oil — I always ask people to bring me back a bottle. I grew up using it on my skin, and I use it in cooking too. I was in New Zealand recently and I raided dad’s supply; my brother is about to go and I said he had to bring me some. Here in the UK it’s so cold that it sets whereas in Samoa it’s the same consistency as olive oil. So in the winter I leave it sitting on the radiator in the bathroom so it’s always ready to go. There are lots of traditional carvings and weapons which you can bring back, but one of my favourite things is a salu — it’s the traditional broom used to sweep the floor. You get the coconut tree fronds and strip them back so you just have the long stick. They gather about a hundred of them together and bind it, and it is used to sweep the floor. I keep mine in a massive vase at home though as I think it’s so beautiful. My husband loves it because he uses it to sweep spiders away from the high corners of the house!

Your packing essential?

Mosquito repellent! When you’re staying in a fale you’ll need that. And factor 50 sunblock.

A song that reminds you of the place?

Yes! Mamalu o samoa is a favourite.

Your dress code for the destination?

Samoans are so stylish! Be as bright and colourful as you can be, just like the houses.

Have you ever had an emergency incident there?

I once had to go to the hospital because I got a bite in the back of my leg which got infected — that is not uncommon in Samoa though.

Building you would like to live in?

My dad bought extra land for us in case we ever wanted to go and live there. If I did live there I would want a traditionally built house, like a fale, but with all the mod cons like air conditioning and mosquito nets! The sides of the fale are totally open but they have shutters made from banana leaves that come down.

Do you have a top wellness tip for the area?

There are natural springs, but also villages have natural pools which fill up when the tide comes in, with natural seawater. Almost every village has one and if you’re driving through you’re more than welcome to stop and swim in them. Out of politeness you just need to ask permission from someone in the village and they’d be happy to let you. They’re really beautiful. Absolute paradise.