A beauty writer's guide to brow lamination

Once upon a time (aka the 90s), skinny brows were the shape du jour. Ultra-fine, slim arches, as seen on the era's leading beauties, Charlize Theron, Naomi Campbell and Drew Barrymore to name a few, ruled the roost – prompting a generational wave of overplucking.

Fastforward a few decades, and, aside from the odd statement editorial or red carpet outlier (Doja Cat, we're looking at you), the look has very much flipped.

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Full, fluffy arches are one of the most popular contemporary brow styles – think a soft, feather-like arrangement with upwards lift. And if your natural arches aren't up to scratch? Thanks to innovation, there's no need to lament. Brow lamination, a semi-permanent treatment hailing from Russia, could well be the answer.

What is brow lamination?

In essence, the treatment restructures the individual brow hairs, setting them in a uniform direction to create the appearance of full, thicker brows. "It's almost like a perm for your eyebrows, similar to the well-known lash lift treatment," explains Rawr Beauty's senior therapist Harmeet Mansfield. "They're both ways of enhancing what you already have by manipulating the hairs, with products designed to keep brow or lash hairs in place."

Who is it suitable for?

Brow lamination is ideal if your natural hairs are "flat or downward growing". By temporarily altering the direction of growth, the treatment allows for a fluffier, more striking effect. It can also be effective on unruly, sporadic hairs for improved uniformity.

I already have reasonably full, dark brows, so I wasn't necessarily intent on more volume, but lamination captured my attention with the promise of a more low-maintenance brow regime. The simple act of putting on a jumper is more than enough to disrupt the shape of my naturally lengthy brows, and so I was keen to see if I really could retire my trusty Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Freeze Gel for a few weeks.

How does it work?

The process involves restructuring the hair bonds and resetting them. First, your therapist will apply a cream to your brows to "break down the bonds" in the individual strands, "so they can be manipulated into a new position". Next, they are brushed upwards to help pull them in a "uniform, vertical direction". As the final part of the process, your therapist will "apply a 'neutraliser' to help seal your brows into place" so that they stay lifted over the coming weeks. If you're looking for a more statement look, many salons also offer tinting to coincide with the lamination to give your arches an extra hit of definition.

MORE: What exactly is a lash lift? Here's everything you need to know

READ: Thick eyebrows: how to boost your brow game

What you need to know before your appointment

Harmeet advises streamlining your usual skincare routine prior to the treatment, "avoiding using exfoliants or retinoids on your face for one to two weeks". Also, it's best to avoid tweezing for at least one week beforehand – but rest assured, it's still possible to have your brows threaded or waxed during the appointment as an add-on at many leading salons, including Rawr.

The first solution can have an 'interesting', not especially enticing eggy smell to it, but olfactory assaults aside, I found the lamination process to be extremely smooth and fuss-free. It was entirely painless, and largely involved lying in a chair with your eyes closed. Bliss. I was in and out of the salon within 45 minutes, and that was with me asking heaps of questions along the way.

How long does it last?

The effects of a brow lamination will typically last between four and six weeks, depending on your natural growth cycle and how you manage the aftercare.

The aftercare

The process is similar to a perm, and in order to allow your brows to set properly, it's important to keep the brow area dry for the first 24 hours after your treatment. At first, it's best to avoid touching them, but beyond that, you can style them with a spoolie – Harmeet gave me a serum sachet to use daily on my brows to keep them moisturised as the lamination process can leave the strands feeling slightly drier than usual.

The verdict: is it worth it?

I personally couldn't believe how full and feathery my natural brows looked after the treatment. It was a lot. To be totally honest, I wasn't used to seeing my brows looking quite so done – Clean Girl done rather than 2016 Instagram done, to be clear. In the cold, hard light of day, I felt faintly ridiculous. But I needn't have.

I didn't wear any eye makeup to my appointment, and so, seeing my brows as the headliner rather than the supporting act on my face was a bit startling. But when I balanced out the drama with my usual soft brown liner and lash separating mascara combo, I knew I was onto a winner.

If, like me, your brows are naturally lengthy – in terms of individual strands rather than the overall arch – oh my goodness, ask for a trim beforehand. Harmeet instantly recognised the fact, and offered to do a bit of light trimming, which I think really helped my brows look fluffy and effortless rather than electrified editorial.

For those with naturally, or indeed self-inflicted, sparseness, I would really recommend a lamination. The results make your arches look noticeably denser and fuller – an oddly dramatic-yet-natural oxymoron.

The other part that I loved, is that the brows are still malleable afterwards. They feel texturally coarser, as though they've been misted with a layer or hairspray, but can still be combed in the direction of your choice. I tend to favour a refreshed, fluffy diagonal rather than bolt upright vertical, as I find this style gives my eye area a flattering, energised lift.