How to avoid the Taj Mahal crowds – and the secret spot for the perfect sunset shot

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“The one thing that will stay with you for life is that first glimpse of the Taj – there’s nothing quite like it,” said my guide, Manohar Singh, as we walked towards the eastern gate of the mausoleum.

He was right, as amid the cacophony of both local and international sightseers walking through the colossal gates, everything soon faded away into the shadows as the Taj Mahal unfolded right before us. Its bulbous white dome and four accompanying minarets stood tall against the clear, azure sky.

That image of the Taj Mahal – from my first visit in 2007 – made a lasting impression on me. When I returned with my spouse 14 years later, it still managed to take my breath away – particularly when the colours shifted from amber to ivory at sunrise.

The Taj Mahal, which translates to “crown palace” in Urdu, is the magnum opus of Mughal design. It was built in the 17th century with lustrous marble from the quarries of Makrana in Rajasthan and intricate inlay work called pietra dura, which you will notice throughout, especially on the monument’s walls.

Look closer and a medley of precious and semi-precious stones such as turquoise, jade, lapis lazuli and mother of pearl are carefully placed in delicate floral and geometric patterns – onyx is used for the calligraphic verses of the Qur’an. Indian poet and Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore waxed lyrical about this photogenic gem, calling it “a teardrop on the cheek of time”.

No trip to India is complete without visiting this architectural and historical masterpiece, which was built on the south bank of the Yamuna river as a symbol of love and dedication by emperor Shah Jahan for his late wife, Mumtaz Mahal. Here’s how you can experience it yourself.

Where is it the Taj Mahal?

The city of Agra lies about 140 miles south of Delhi. It was the capital of the Mughals, the home of the Taj Mahal, and is one of the highlights of India’s popular Golden Triangle tourism circuit.

Over the past century, parts of the building’s shimmery marble have faded due to air pollution and acid rain, but restoration efforts have been taken to protect the monument. Only electric vehicles are permitted near the vicinity and there is a ban on industrial operations within 500m (547 yards) of its “trapezium zone”.

All flights from London Heathrow land directly in Delhi, from where you can drive to Agra. If booking a taxi, the journey by road is approximately three to four hours depending on traffic. There are daily trains that depart regularly from Delhi to Agra and take approximately three hours.

International direct flights also serve Jaipur – 150 miles west of Agra, from where there are regular trains, buses and taxis to the city.

If this is your first odyssey to India, the straightforward way to get there is by booking a tour package. Alternatively, reserve a room in a hotel in Delhi after landing and head to Agra after about a day or so, to acclimatise.

When to go to the Taj Mahal

Given its popularity, expect the Taj Mahal to be fairly busy throughout the year, but you’ll be able to find a spot in its sprawling gardens to sit down and take it all in.

The peak season runs from early November to late March, when temperatures oscillate between a balmy 28C during the day and drop to about 15C at night. Though you will avoid the city’s sweltering heat and torrential rains, expect it to be livelier than usual, especially in November.

If hot days and monsoon showers, which often pass quickly, aren’t a hindrance to you, then aim for a visit between July and October. Many premium accommodations during the monsoon season offer discounted rates too, and taverns with views of the Taj see fewer tourists.

Getting a ticket to the Taj Mahal

Ticket prices start at 1,100 rupees (£10) for foreign nationals, with an additional 200 rupees (£1.82) to visit the main mausoleum. There is no entry fee for children below 15 years. Purchase your ticket in advance online (tajmahal.gov.in) to avoid queuing at the ticket offices, which is always very busy.

The security measures are similar to that of an airport, where all visitors will have to carry an official photo ID and bags will undergo screening. There are separate queues for men and women and you won’t be permitted to carry tripods, drones, books, food, drinks or large bags.

The best time to visit Taj Mahal

The Taj is open every day except Fridays. There are no set visiting hours as the monument is open 30 minutes before sunrise and closes 30 minutes after sunset, approximately from 6.30am to 6.30pm.

As the sky changes colour during the sunset, making the monument appear pink or even amber, it is busiest from 3pm onwards. Many photography enthusiasts tend to arrive early for the sunrise too, when there’s a fraction of the domestic crowds and large groups.

If you aren’t keen on waking up early, then arrive between 12pm and 3pm, where you’ll have swarms of tourists, but not on the same scale as those staying until dusk.

Booking a guide

Booking a guide depends on the kind of experience you’re after. Exploring without a guide gives you the freedom to take a leisurely walk in the enormous gardens and admire the Taj at your own pace.

Hiring a guide can be a helpful way to learn about its history, architecture and masonry. Like tickets, it is best to hire a guide in advance by emailing the Uttar Pradesh Tourism Board or booking online from trusted platforms such as Viator and Get Your Guide.

Accessing the Taj Mahal complex

Though there are four gates, only the west and east gates are used for entry and exit, while the south gate is exit only.

The west gate is livelier as it is closer to the amenities. The east gate, though a walk from the ticket office, is your best bet if you’ve purchased your ticket ahead and seek fewer crowds and a quieter experience.

If organising your own transport, parking may not be readily available and taxi drivers may not be able to drop you right by the gates.

Can you go inside the Taj Mahal?

Understanding the layout

After security, you will reach one of the grand sandstone gates of the Taj Mahal complex. The main mausoleum and its four minarets sit on a wide, oblong marble plinth. In true Mughal style, the monument is surrounded by four gates in each direction, after which you’re greeted by the charbagh (translates to four gardens), which stand in front of the Taj, dotted with fountains and walkways. The central pool is where you will spot a striking, symmetrical reflection, often seen on postcards.

The layout of the charbagh is meant to replicate the Garden of Paradise in heaven – according to the Qur’an. To the west of the Taj is a deep red sandstone mosque, which is still used for worship today, and a replica of the same (for symmetry) to the east.

Once you walk past the extensive gardens, you will have to climb a short flight of stairs to access the main mausoleum. To avoid marble erosion, this is also where you will either need to take your shoes off or wear shoe covers (ordinarily included with your ticket or can be purchased in the complex for a small fee) to access the main square of the mausoleum, if you would like to see its intricate embellishments up close.

If you are here at midday under a cloudless sky, be prepared to put your sunglasses on, as the sun’s rays make the luminous marble all around you gleam.

The queues can get longer as people enter the inner, octagonal chamber to catch a glimpse of the two cenotaphs of the emperor and his wife behind a decorative, lattice-patterned marble screen. There’s no photography allowed inside and visitors are encouraged to maintain silence. While you are being ushered in the crowd, take a moment to admire the intricate stonework and lotus-patterned ceiling beneath the dome.

The exit leads you to the back of the monument, where you come up close with the Yamuna river. Look out for the earthy red sandstone ramparts of the 16th-century Agra Fort to your left, which was the residence of the Mughal royal family at a distance.

Avoiding the crowds at the Taj Mahal

As local visitors from neighbouring cities, including Delhi and Jaipur, tend to flock here over the weekends, aim for a visit between Mondays and Thursdays. The complex is closed every Friday.

If you’re hoping to get that prized sunrise shot, arrive at dawn, at least 30 minutes before the gates open. The replica mosque to the right of the Taj is where you’ll find plenty of space to take photographs with fewer people in the frame.

Mehtab Bagh, a sprawling, airy garden behind the monument, on the northern bank of the Yamuna, is another superb spot to take pictures. Tickets cost approximately £2.75 per person to enter. Though you’re not up close and personal, you’ll catch the first rays of the sun on its dome and minarets from the east with barely a soul in sight.

Planning a trip to India

When to go

If visiting the Taj Mahal as part of a longer trip to India, aim to travel between early November and late March, which are the most pleasant months to visit, making sightseeing – especially during the day in scorching cities such as Delhi and Jaipur – easier. In December and January, there are sporadic occasions when the Taj is shrouded in fog.

If you’re looking for cheaper rates and fewer crowds, try the shoulder seasons between the monsoon and autumn from late July to late October.

How to get there

It is wise to make the country’s capital your base, even if your sole purpose is to see the Taj and explore the city of Agra, as the latter is a much smaller city with no direct international flights and few domestic flights.

Several major airlines such as British Airways, Virgin Atlantic and Air India fly directly to Delhi’s Indira Gandhi International Airport – from here hire a taxi for a day or an overnight trip via apps like Uber, for approximately £30 each way.

If you prefer travelling by train, there are several express trains that operate between the two cities. It is best to book your tickets in advance online via Indian Railways. For more comfortable seats – which are still inexpensive – select AC First class.

The best packages

If visiting for the first time, it is best to book a package that includes hotels, land transport and guided tours. Expect to pay more if you want your flights covered.

For the top sites

Audley Travel offers a fantastic 11-day Golden Triangle and Tigers tour from £3,610pp, which includes international flights, hotels and transfers along with visiting Agra Fort at sunset and sunrise at the Taj.

For solo travellers

Distant Journeys offers a Temples & Tigers 13-day tour exclusively for solo travellers from £2,395pp, where a sunrise visit to the Taj is saved till the very end of the trip, before which you’ll tour the Golden Temple in Amritsar, explore Jaipur and experience a safari in Ranthambore National Park.

For rail lovers

Step back in time with a luxurious rail journey on The Maharajas’ Express, which traverses Agra. Cox & Kings offers a nine-day journey on The Maharajas’ Express priced at £10,640pp, including international flights, accommodation on board, internal transfers, porter service, meals and guides. The trip includes a visit to the Taj Mahal and the regal cities of Rajasthan – Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur and Bikaner with a mix of tuk-tuk rides and walking tours.

For families

Kuoni Travel’s Taj Mahal, Tigers and Teens small group tour is priced at £2,350pp, including flights, accommodation and internal transfers. The visit also includes a walking tour in Agra, which follows the architectural achievements of Agra’s extraordinary Mughal women, including Itmad-ud-Daulah.

Doing it on a budget

Airfare to India can be exorbitant during peak seasons, but if planned in advance, you can enjoy a trip of a lifetime that is inexpensive too. Keep an eye out for sales on airfares, mainly with British Airways and Air India, where you will find largely discounted rates, especially ahead of the shoulder seasons.

There are affordable package tours with the likes of Jules Verne, which offers an India’s Golden Triangle trip for nine nights from £1,995pp. The price includes international air travel and taxes, transfers, accommodation, daily breakfast and local guides. The itinerary also incorporates a meal with a local family, rail journeys, visiting the Mughal town of Fatehpur Sikri and a rooftop drink at sunset, overlooking the Taj.

Know before you go

• A visa should be obtained to visit India ahead of the trip. Apply online for an e-Tourist Visa (eTV) through the Indian government’s official portal (indianvisaonline.gov.in). Your passport must be machine-readable, with two blank pages and valid for a minimum of 180 days at the time of your visa application.

• The Indian rupee is the local currency. Though most cities in India are transforming into a cashless society, where mobile and online banking is preferred, some smaller, local shops still prefer cash payments. Obtaining small change can be challenging, so it is advisable to break large-denomination notes wherever possible.

• The Foreign Office advises against all travel within 10km (6¼ miles) of the India-Pakistan border (except for Wagah) and exercise caution when visiting Jammu and Kashmir and parts of north-east India.

• For urgent help contact the British High Commission in New Delhi on 0091 112419 2100.

• Dial 100 to call the police, fire and ambulance services.