How Fashion Insiders Curate Their Capsule Wardrobe
So, you’re embarking on the capsule wardrobe mission. Welcome! I’m excited to steer you towards all the best pieces – mostly because I know all too well, finding the classics that’ll really stand the test of time is no easy feat.
Minimalist basics might abound on the high street, but not all classic black blazers were born equal. The ultimate white T-shirt is tricky to find. And locating the perfect pair of point-toe boots is a skill in itself.
It’s true that curating a capsule wardrobe can test your patience, but when done properly, it won’t decimate your bank balance – at least not in the long run. Investing in all those season-transcending staples is always worth it: trust me, you’ll be glad you did the sartorial legwork in a decade’s time, when that perfect black coat is still going strong.
FIND OUT MORE ON ELLE COLLECTIVE
How to start building a capsule wardrobe
So, where to start? First things first, you’ll need to ascertain exactly what your wardrobe really needs. ‘My top piece of advice is to really look at your lifestyle and what you love – the things that make you feel good and confident,’ says stylist and content creator Lucy Alston. ‘Then, from there, have a good clear out: anything that doesn't feel right or that you haven't worn for some time needs to go to a new home. Once you've done that process you should have a clearer idea about what you really need and you can make more conscious shopping decisions.’
Alston also recommends reframing how you see the concept of a capsule wardrobe: it’s not a death knell for your love of fashion trends, but rather a base on which to build from. ‘Sometimes a capsule wardrobe may come across as being quite restricting or bland, but if you like organisation and not having to spend time in the morning deciding what to wear, it can be a game changer.’
As art director Federica Labanca adds, a capsule wardrobe doesn't have to be cookie-cutter: these are pieces you want to wear day in, day out, so if you have a unique sense of style, don’t quash it. ‘Visualise the styles and colours you like and build around them,’ she says. ‘For me personally, I love colours and big shoulders, so a staple piece to me could be a bright statement blazer or chunky cardigan. Once I know I have these pieces, building a look around them becomes so much easier.’
I totally agree: having a capsule wardrobe doesn’t have to mean you end up looking the same as everyone else. Consider these pieces the building blocks of your looks: add in a fun shoe or statement bag for evenings out, or use jewellery to elevate those well-chosen essentials. Introducing a seasonal silhouette or two each season will satisfy that craving for newness without leading you into the trap of buying too many pieces with a short sell-by date.
So, once you’ve relinquished the pieces you no longer need to eBay (be ruthless), located the gaps in your roster and ascertained exactly what your day-to-day rotation really needs, it’s time to go shopping. To avoid overwhelm, I’ve done all the pedantic trying-on and repetitive strain-inducing scrolling to locate every single piece truly worthy of a spot in your newly edited capsule wardrobe. Trust me: get these core pieces right, and getting dressed each morning will become so much easier.
How To Build A Capsule Wardrobe, According To Fashion Experts
The white T-shirt
Andrea Cheong, sustainable shopping expert and author of Why Don’t I Have Anything To Wear? knows exactly what makes a white T-shirt worthy of your wardrobe. ‘100% natural always, whether that's a linen and cotton blend or fully cotton,’ she says. ‘Check the surface to see if there's a light fuzz: if so I would avoid, as it usually indicates shorter and/or looser fibres have been used, which is an indication of poor-quality textile.’
As for the cut? This depends on your preferences. Instead of following seasonal trends, ask yourself whether you feel most confident in something shrunken and form-fitting or baggy and boxy. Arket generally rules the high street when it comes to white T-shirts that look (and feel) expensive: its Heavyweight T-Shirt is well worth the initial investment. Alston also name-checks Uniqlo (she likes the men’s options better) and John Lewis' classic organic-cotton option. ‘At the higher end, House of Dagmar does a very good white tee in three different styles,’ she adds.
The black blazer
If you’re going to invest heavily in one key capsule piece, make it your black blazer. No style item is more resistant to the whims of the seasons than a great suit jacket, and investing wisely now will ensure you reap the benefits for years – even decades – to come.
Now, black blazers might be ubiquitous, but I’ve found most of the more affordable options fall short when it comes to cut and quality: and frankly, a substandard black blazer never really looks good. You ideally want something that’s heavy enough to hold its shape (a strong shoulder always looks more expensive than a sloping one) with proper pockets and sleeves you can have tailored if needs be.
Cheong advises avoiding synthetic blends, and looking for viscose over polyester in your lining. ‘Not all blazers need to be lined but if yours is, the overhang of the inside shouldn't be baggy: it should sit relatively flat to the shell,’ she adds.
What’s more, all details should be functional: ‘pockets and buttons should actually work’, she adds. ‘Beware of trends here, for example, a lot of oversized items are commercially motivated so it reduces the need for proper fitting. Truly "oversized" pieces should still be correct in terms of length of sleeve and the shoulders should still make sense to your proportions.’
For those willing to invest, turn to big players Saint Laurent and Isabel Marant, and my personal go-to, Toteme. (My tie-waist blazer from the brand is three years young, has been dry-cleaned four times, taken to endless parties, and still looks brand new). Another fail-safe investment, The Frankie Shop’s viral Bea blazer is the most-worn piece in Alston’s own wardrobe. ‘It literally turns around an outfit in just one step, making me feel good and effortlessly put together,’ she says.
For a sharp, androgynous result, consider a double-breasted design: these look especially cool shrugged over a white T-shirt and wide-leg jeans. And for something that feels versatile enough to work with midi dresses and skirts, a slimline single-breasted shape is ideal. Just be sure not to go too oversized: a too-big blazer might feel right for now, but, as Cheong says, it’s unlikely you’ll love it for years to come. The perfect middle ground is for your piece to fit neatly on the shoulders, then fall into a roomy, boxy body.
The white shirt
A good white shirt will become a surprisingly versatile component of your capsule wardrobe: go slimline and tuck into high waistbands, size up and wear shrugged over a base layer, or roll up the sleeves and leave the hem to flap over a pair of low-slung jeans.
Few fashion dilemmas are more frustrating than a white shirt that turns see-through in bright light, yet so many brands still fall short when it comes to fabric quality. The trick with this wardrobe essential is to look for heavier weights with a substantial handle: lighter options will feel flimsy and may not survive so many washes. Alston recommends cult shirting specialists With Nothing Underneath and, having lived in one of their white linen shirts on holiday this summer, I have to agree. ‘I also have a great one from Citizens of Humanity: it's longer, so great for layering,’ adds Alston.
Labanca recommends Woera, a small brand that specialises in boyish shirts, cut for women. And on the high street, I’ve had success in the men’s section of Uniqlo: just size up for a slouchier, less corporate cut.
The vest top
Since Bottega Veneta and Prada both sent plain white vest tops down the runway back in 2022, the casual basic has been elevated to a fashion essential. Not just the perfect partner for your favourite blue jeans, the white vest works with office tailoring, puffy midi skirts and even Nineties slip skirts.
The good news is, the high street is awash with white vests that tick the boxes: Marks and Spencer, Cos and Arket all make affordable options you can chuck in the washing machine without fear of them losing their shape or stretch.
The cashmere sweater
This one's a little indulgent, but trust me: a good cashmere sweater is something you'll always look forward to pulling on once the temperatures dip.
There is some good cashmere to be found on the high street: Marks and Spencer's signature sweater comes in at under £100 and is soft, if a little fine. Uniqlo's are a sell-out every year for good reason. And if you're looking for something with serious longevity, turn to the stalwarts (N. Peal and Begg x Co are both outstanding) or try newcomer Gobi for oversized, extra-snuggly shapes.
To keep your cashmere going for as long as possible, it's important to care for it correctly. Get yourself a cashmere comb (some brands such as Gobi, include them with orders) or an electric pilling machine – Steamery makes a great one. Always hand wash with a gentle detergent, and to dry your sweater, lie it flat over a towel (never hang it when wet, as you'll ruin the shape).
The suit trousers
In recent years, a pair of tailored trousers has become a dominant wardrobe piece whether you work in an office or not. The trends might dictate that low-slung and slouchy is the only way to go, but as with all capsule pieces, it’s best to consider which cut suits your style and shape best. That said, a good fabrication is crucial, whatever silhouette you’re going for: look for linen in lighter summer pieces, cotton and wool in wintry designs.
'I have a beautiful pair of tailored wool trousers from Filippa K which fit so well,' says Alton. 'With Nothing Underneath have also just launched a tailored trouser made from pure wool. I sized up for a more slouchy masculine fit, which will look great pared back with a more fitted top and kitten heels for the evening and with trainers and a trench coat during the day.'
I always head to Cos when I'm in need of a great pair of tailored trousers. Most are made from pure wool with pure cotton linings (not all though, so check the care label) and come with adjustable buttoned straps on the inside, meaning you can let the waistband out for a lower-slung silhouette.
The black boot
'Shoes are really important because they're arguably one of the most functional items in our wardrobes,' says Cheong. And a black boot is perhaps the most practical of all the pairs you could invest in, working all year round and with so many different outfits.
When choosing The One, consider the heel height: will it realistically work for your schedule? And is it a match for your most-worn trouser hems? As for the silhouette, a pointed toe looks sharp and polished, while a rounder style connotes casual ease.
And one thing to note: paying more for your footwear doesn't mean you'll be able to stomp about in them forever without the necessary maintenance and care. ‘Shoes will require re-soling, no matter how great quality they are,' says Cheong. 'I think it's important to understand that the maintenance of clothes and accessories is necessary because too many people have been persuaded to associate durability with quality and that's quite reductive.'
However, if it's longevity you're going for, there are some materials to veer away from. 'I'm not a fan of faux leather as it peels and scuffs easily, and these issues aren't easy to repair,' says Cheong. 'Some styles of boot are heavier than others, like lug soles for example. But ultimately, they should be comfortable, with a cushioned insole.' And if you're buying vintage shoes? Don't go too far back in history, as once the leather dries out and the glue begins to crack, even the best cobbler will struggle to bring your shoes back to life.
The work bag
One of the best things you can do to elevate your working-week style is to make this year the year you finally ditch the dog-eared canvas tote. Get yourself a work bag you can stuff your laptop and coffee cup into, and you'll no longer need to slog that extra appendage around day in, day out.
Chylak is the affordable bag brand to know when it comes to bags that marry style with practicality, while Demellier's latest collection contains some quiet-luxury contenders that you're bound to love forever.
The casual sweater
I love a cosy grey-marl sweatshirt, but there's a fine line between athleisure and sofa-dweller. I find the key to a sweatshirt that looks appropriate for smarter days is all in the weight and quality of the fabric: so many turn too soft and slouchy after a couple of washes, leaving them destined for working-from-home days.
I recently discovered a great one from capsule-wardrobe specialists Navygrey: it's heavy enough to feel satisfyingly stiff, holds its shape well, and has tight-enough ribbed cuffs to ensure the sleeves don't flop scruffily over my wrists. And for something made with care from pure organic cotton, try small independent brand Elliot Organics: its one-size Joanie sweatshirt looks boxy when laid flat, but actually features a gently curved back to ensure it cocoons in the most flattering way.
The trench coat
Trust me: a great trench coat is one that'll really see you through the years (the price of my long-loved Burberry may have made me wince when I bought it, but five years on the cost-per-wear has proved saintly.)
That's not to say you need to head to the patron saint of heritage checks to get yourself a good one, though: Barbour's water-resistant options are slightly more affordable, whereas solid options can be found on the high street at Massimo Dutti and Cos. If you're after something a little more directional, head to Aligne, whose Barnaby trench is reversible with a checked alternative side and cute corduroy trims.
The jeans
This one's a particularly subjective category, as one person's perfect jeans will be another's nightmare. But, one thing is for sure: every good capsule wardrobe needs great denim, whether you prefer straight, skinny, mom or wide-legged. To narrow down the search, ask yourself two things: firstly, where do you plan to wear your jeans? If it's the supermarket and the pub, you likely want something comfortable and casual, The office? You'll want to consider more tailored cuts, and perhaps the new season's dominating dark indigo washes, which always look smart and polished.
The gold earrings
A strong pair of earrings is the frosting on the capsule cake, lending all manner of looks added impact and glamour. Happily, brands are leaning heavily into statement styles right now, and there's a host of new independent brands launching with lines of artisanal, love-forever styles. Labanca is a poster girl for the door knocker earring: she recommends By Alona and The Ysso (I can vouch that both are beautifully crafted and gloriously impactful). For something subtler and sleeker, you can't go wrong with Missoma.
The slip dress
Whatever the season, there's a slip dress at the centre of my rotation. Yes, they're more of an essential in the warmer months, but I find a simple, Nineties-style black satin midi to be my saviour in those last-minute evening event occurrences when you just don't know what to wear. Stick a cashmere jumper on top, elevate with heels or make it work for day with cowboy boots: the slip is seriously versatile, whatever the weather.
As a long-time slip-dress supporter, I know exactly where the good ones are hiding, whether you want to spend a little or a lot. Ghost is great for size and colour options (plus straps wide enough to mask a bra strap) while Asceno is a wise move for something special and timeless. Weekday is the unequivocal queen on the high street: I've got four, in black, nude and silver, and they've lasted for years.
ELLE Collective is a new community of fashion, beauty and culture lovers. For access to exclusive content, events, inspiring advice from our Editors and industry experts, as well the opportunity to meet designers, thought-leaders and stylists, become a member today HERE.
You Might Also Like
